DFD

[user not found] wrote: ↑Sun Aug 27, 2017 11:48 pm

wap wrote: ↑Sun Aug 27, 2017 9:09 pm

;

How could I forget and ?

isn't a member here and does not warrant further mention.

Clearly, I need to up my meme speak game.

dubshow wrote: ↑Sun Aug 27, 2017 11:41 pm buddy!

Ohhi friend!

stripethree wrote: ↑Mon Aug 28, 2017 12:51 pm Clearly, I need to up my meme speak game.

dubshow wrote: ↑Sun Aug 27, 2017 11:41 pm buddy!

Ohhi friend!

In between some things at the worky and am stuck on remembering the actual mods list on the R in its current form. I'm leaving out non-performance shit because of reasons.

KW ClubSports w/ 750# front and 1100# rear springs; earlier in this thread I misspoke re: 1300# springs, I'd tried those, but 1100# are what's on the car. This is the 4th suspension variation that's been on the car after OEM, I think: Konis/H&R Sports, Konis/Euro Springs, Bilsteins/Euro Springs, KWs. The KWs were put on at the end of 2010 and are probably shot. Looking to replace them in next year's budget. Might try and move back to V3s and get some rubber back in the suspension because it's harsh. Also fiddling with a purpose build heavy duty rallyx suspension that's still street-able, but not sure it's worth spending that money. I have plans to go to RallyX Nationals next year after giving some Subie's a scare at the Central Challenge a few months back. I was on snows and hanging with Subies on rally tires until I blew by a gate on the wrong side. Oops.

Adjustable rear LCAs, even though the car is probably near stock height. Front control arms have upgraded bushings also.

H&R front and rear sway bars, poly bushings in the rear after the car ate two sets of H&Rs "upgraded" rubber bushings

Peloquin LSD up front. The OEM diff imploded in 2009 while driving home from work - yep, wasn't even doing anything fun. It was likely a combination of things. I'd destroyed the dogbone mount earlier in the year bad enough that the front drive shaft coupling also began to fail on a drive home from San Diego after a National Tour event. This allowed more movement that it should have and in combination with a failing input shaft bearing, lead to the spider gears pulling the eject handle. No way to know the real cause since there were many factors, but the input shaft bearing was apparently a known O2M issue. Many shiny bits were found. Main gears were salvageable and the trans was rebuilt with a new case and a Peloquin because it was $400 than a new OEM non-LSD. The rear diff finally went last year, but I replaced that with a stock OEM unit off a TT from the fleabay. Rear Peloquin is $1k and they don't make many of them; USRT guy laughed at me on the phone when I asked about availability. He didn't get my money.

HPA competition Haldex controller, the one that stays engaged under braking. Only disengages at super low speeds, like turning into a parking spot. Weird feeling. This significantly contributes to the fun factor on loose surfaces.

Engine shit: nothing crazy - Evo intake, GIAC 93 tune, custom 16lb single exit exhaust which was a crazy weight loss since the stock exhaust has a huge suitcase muffler and a flapper setup.

The exhaust was done because I wanted to run race tires in DSP and get race seats as that equated to a near 100-pound weight loss since stock the seats are heated and have airbags. Fixed back racing seats (Corbeau FX1 Pros) make it more difficult to get big things in and out of the hatch, so I wanted to tow a small trailer. There's no off the shelf R32 trailer hitch (or, well, there wasn't, I haven't looked since) so an AZ autocross friend who welds fabbed on up for me at the cost of the materical. That was, of course, after the exhaust, since there was no real good way to get around the suitcase muffler. Dominoes.

Brakes... stock calipers and rotor size, currently with Hawk HPS pads, better fluid, stainless lines, and brass caliper pin bushings. The car stops just fine when the boat anchors are thrown out. I've debated downsizing the brakes to fit smaller wheels so that I can run rally tires, but I don't want to give up the stopping power even though people tell me I could maintain it with the right setup. I'm stubborn that way. The weight reduction would probably be nice also but instead I'm trying to find 17" rally tires.

I think that's pretty much it. For rallyx she runs 17x8 Flik FTDs on 225/45 Winterforce tires; crazy to think I've had that set of wheels since 2006? and have gone through many others in between. Daily wheels are 17x9 Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2s that are about to get new bullshit all season tires. The second set of the same wheels is reserved for sporty rubber, with nearly dead RS3s wrapped on them at the moment. Those were not fun in the rain yesterday. Oh yeah, and an aluminum skid plate that has saved the car's life once for sure, and likely saved other damage a number of times.

Oh yeah, the last thing to mention (well, again), the stupid dog bone transmission mount. The Achilles heel of this damn car. The car has been through - and by been through, I mean, they all were destroyed - OEM, OEM mount w/ECS bushings, VF Engineering, OEM mount with BFI stage 1 and stock center (bad decision). Now has BFI stage 2 with stock middle that I need to swap out. Bought ECS's newer "red" for the middle, threw that in the BFI stage 1 and need to put it back on the car. Hoping that'll be the ticket, or at least, will fail at a longer interval. I have no illusions that a permanent solution will be found given what gets done with this car. This is also why I have ready to go spare(s). Oh, she's also destroyed a set of stock and a set of VF Engineering motor mounts along the way. Currently back to stock there.

There. Probably way more than you gave a shit about the car. It's been and continues to be a fun ride. There's certainly stuff I'm forgetting, some of which might have been in the car for a decade, like dat HPA short shifter that feels so damn good.

Re: dogbone mount
Shame they mounted the engine the wrong way

The R32 sounds awesome dude.

stripethree wrote: ↑Mon Aug 28, 2017 10:59 amOh, and yeah, R32 and STIs not sports cars. Just fancy fast econoboxes.

Dammit.

What brakes could you downsize too?

If stage rally STi's are running small 4-pots to clear 15" rally ramz and tarz; I would imagine that the R could run something smaller and still slow down fine.

Mk4 GTI brakes work if you get everything - caliper, carrier, & lines - and can fit 15s.

stripethree wrote: ↑Tue Aug 29, 2017 10:25 am Mk4 GTI brakes work if you get everything - caliper, carrier, & lines - and can fit 15s.

Apex wrote: ↑Tue Aug 29, 2017 10:32 am

stripethree wrote: ↑Tue Aug 29, 2017 10:25 am Mk4 GTI brakes work if you get everything - caliper, carrier, & lines - and can fit 15s.

no. thats dumb.

stripethree wrote:In between some things at the worky and am stuck on remembering the actual mods list on the R in its current form. I'm leaving out non-performance shit because of reasons.

KW ClubSports w/ 750# front and 1100# rear springs; earlier in this thread I misspoke re: 1300# springs, I'd tried those, but 1100# are what's on the car. This is the 4th suspension variation that's been on the car after OEM, I think: Konis/H&R Sports, Konis/Euro Springs, Bilsteins/Euro Springs, KWs. The KWs were put on at the end of 2010 and are probably shot. Looking to replace them in next year's budget. Might try and move back to V3s and get some rubber back in the suspension because it's harsh. Also fiddling with a purpose build heavy duty rallyx suspension that's still street-able, but not sure it's worth spending that money. I have plans to go to RallyX Nationals next year after giving some Subie's a scare at the Central Challenge a few months back. I was on snows and hanging with Subies on rally tires until I blew by a gate on the wrong side. Oops.

Adjustable rear LCAs, even though the car is probably near stock height. Front control arms have upgraded bushings also.

H&R front and rear sway bars, poly bushings in the rear after the car ate two sets of H&Rs "upgraded" rubber bushings

Peloquin LSD up front. The OEM diff imploded in 2009 while driving home from work - yep, wasn't even doing anything fun. It was likely a combination of things. I'd destroyed the dogbone mount earlier in the year bad enough that the front drive shaft coupling also began to fail on a drive home from San Diego after a National Tour event. This allowed more movement that it should have and in combination with a failing input shaft bearing, lead to the spider gears pulling the eject handle. No way to know the real cause since there were many factors, but the input shaft bearing was apparently a known O2M issue. Many shiny bits were found. Main gears were salvageable and the trans was rebuilt with a new case and a Peloquin because it was $400 than a new OEM non-LSD. The rear diff finally went last year, but I replaced that with a stock OEM unit off a TT from the fleabay. Rear Peloquin is $1k and they don't make many of them; USRT guy laughed at me on the phone when I asked about availability. He didn't get my money.

HPA competition Haldex controller, the one that stays engaged under braking. Only disengages at super low speeds, like turning into a parking spot. Weird feeling. This significantly contributes to the fun factor on loose surfaces.

Engine shit: nothing crazy - Evo intake, GIAC 93 tune, custom 16lb single exit exhaust which was a crazy weight loss since the stock exhaust has a huge suitcase muffler and a flapper setup.

The exhaust was done because I wanted to run race tires in DSP and get race seats as that equated to a near 100-pound weight loss since stock the seats are heated and have airbags. Fixed back racing seats (Corbeau FX1 Pros) make it more difficult to get big things in and out of the hatch, so I wanted to tow a small trailer. There's no off the shelf R32 trailer hitch (or, well, there wasn't, I haven't looked since) so an AZ autocross friend who welds fabbed on up for me at the cost of the materical. That was, of course, after the exhaust, since there was no real good way to get around the suitcase muffler. Dominoes.

Brakes... stock calipers and rotor size, currently with Hawk HPS pads, better fluid, stainless lines, and brass caliper pin bushings. The car stops just fine when the boat anchors are thrown out. I've debated downsizing the brakes to fit smaller wheels so that I can run rally tires, but I don't want to give up the stopping power even though people tell me I could maintain it with the right setup. I'm stubborn that way. The weight reduction would probably be nice also but instead I'm trying to find 17" rally tires.

I think that's pretty much it. For rallyx she runs 17x8 Flik FTDs on 225/45 Winterforce tires; crazy to think I've had that set of wheels since 2006? and have gone through many others in between. Daily wheels are 17x9 Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2s that are about to get new bullshit all season tires. The second set of the same wheels is reserved for sporty rubber, with nearly dead RS3s wrapped on them at the moment. Those were not fun in the rain yesterday. Oh yeah, and an aluminum skid plate that has saved the car's life once for sure, and likely saved other damage a number of times.

Oh yeah, the last thing to mention (well, again), the stupid dog bone transmission mount. The Achilles heel of this damn car. The car has been through - and by been through, I mean, they all were destroyed - OEM, OEM mount w/ECS bushings, VF Engineering, OEM mount with BFI stage 1 and stock center (bad decision). Now has BFI stage 2 with stock middle that I need to swap out. Bought ECS's newer "red" for the middle, threw that in the BFI stage 1 and need to put it back on the car. Hoping that'll be the ticket, or at least, will fail at a longer interval. I have no illusions that a permanent solution will be found given what gets done with this car. This is also why I have ready to go spare(s). Oh, she's also destroyed a set of stock and a set of VF Engineering motor mounts along the way. Currently back to stock there.

There. Probably way more than you gave a shit about the car. It's been and continues to be a fun ride. There's certainly stuff I'm forgetting, some of which might have been in the car for a decade, like dat HPA short shifter that feels so damn good.

TL;DR

stripethree wrote: ↑Sat Aug 26, 2017 3:52 pm The S2Ks days in BS are, if not numbered, already past. The Caymans will rule all and I know of a certain 1M that destroys the class every National event I go to. How that car is even in BS I do not know.

Hey S2000, the BS death bell rings for thee. First one is 17th in a class of 55, top 10: Cayman, 1M, C5, C5, M2, M2, C5, C5, Focus RS C5.

Now I wait for to tell me to buy a C5.

C5 is the right answer.

stripethree wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:32 am

stripethree wrote: ↑Sat Aug 26, 2017 3:52 pm The S2Ks days in BS are, if not numbered, already past. The Caymans will rule all and I know of a certain 1M that destroys the class every National event I go to. How that car is even in BS I do not know.

Hey S2000, the BS death bell rings for thee. First one is 17th in a class of 55, top 10: Cayman, 1M, C5, C5, M2, M2, C5, C5, Focus RS C5.

Now I wait for to tell me to buy a C5.

inb4 sk2 goes to decimate all in CS

Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:57 am inb4 sk2 goes to decimate all in CS

Things I didn't consider for 500 Alex.

In reality, nah. They wouldn't put the darling MX5 at risk.

stripethree wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:06 pm

Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:57 am inb4 sk2 goes to decimate all in CS

Things I didn't consider for 500 Alex.

In reality, nah. They wouldn't put the darling MX5 at risk.

but what if they moved the mx5 to DS to decimate all?

Because all the twins are moving to Spec Coupe Circlejerk?

stripethree wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:30 pm Because all the twins are moving to Spec Coupe Circlejerk?

In reality, I see these options:
* keep S2K as is, autox locally, have fun and give less fucks about competition
* load moderate sized money cannon, go to STR and have 2 cars that are uncomfortable to drive around normal streets but have a convertible with handling all the time
* sell S2K, buy another convertible, because I cannot see going without a convertible again in a climate where I can drop dat top ~10+ months a year. Candidates... oh man that's a conversation.

Curveball: dropping it at a shop tomorrow me thinks to have it looked at. Reverse started making noise leaving bike night last night, in addition to the other nonsense. If the tranny is borked, I might throw in the towel.

Hello former fellow blue sports car owner!

Put new trans in and keep it stock?
Seems like a winning combo to me.

Melon wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:41 pm Hello former fellow blue sports car owner!

Who says next sports cars wouldn't be blue?

stripethree wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:42 pm

Melon wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:41 pm Hello former fellow blue sports car owner!

Who says next sports cars wouldn't be blue?

It had better be.

stripethree wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:36 pm In reality, I see these options:
* keep S2K as is, autox locally, have fun and give less fucks about competition
* load moderate sized money cannon, go to STR and have 2 cars that are uncomfortable to drive around normal streets but have a convertible with handling all the time
* sell S2K, buy another convertible, because I cannot see going without a convertible again in a climate where I can drop dat top ~10+ months a year. Candidates... oh man that's a conversation.

Curveball: dropping it at a shop tomorrow me thinks to have it looked at. Reverse started making noise leaving bike night last night, in addition to the other nonsense. If the tranny is borked, I might throw in the towel.

* sell S2k, buy track bike and gear.
** buy my Grom and use it for generally fuckery around Austin.