The :baby: :baby: :baby: chronicles

[SAWCE]

Haven’t seen him in person (ever) but can confirm he looks great and is killing the weightloss. We’ve talked a few times over IG and I’ve offered my helps whenever he feels ready to start lifting. Be cool if he takes me, or someone else, up on it. Either way, he did some fucking work that’s for sure.

[Desertbreh]

You just have to be more tired of being fat than you are of being hungry.

Easier said than done. 1lb = 3,500 calories, 150lb is 525,000 calories. That's the equivalent to 262.5 days of eating nothing for someone on a 2,000 calorie per day diet.

It's a shitload of weight loss.

[D Griff]

You just have to be more tired of being fat than you are of being hungry.

Easier said than done. 1lb = 3,500 calories, 150lb is 525,000 calories. That's the equivalent to 262.5 days of eating nothing for someone on a 2,000 calorie per day diet.

it’s very simple but also very hard.

[golftdibrad1]

That's awesome.

I was actually encouraging to stop by here when we were together at TOTD to speak with one of the two of you guys about a training program. He lost over 150 pounds and looks great but is hoping to get a program in place to gain a bit of muscle and add in some sort of weight training.

Holy wow, that's amazing! Dude must at least be doing something right.

probably semaglutide. Shit works, no doubt about it.

[razr390]

Happy for you man. Life is too short to do something you don't like if it can be avoided and this is an awesome step. Sounds like it's well thought out and you have the spousal support, so why not go for it? No better time than now.

While it's sad to see the car go, it sounds like it's part of a bigger, better plan; small sacrifice in the end (particularly since you're not using it much) for a more fulfilling life.

Thanks man. Having a career I give a shit about is way more important to me than a car I never drive.

This mindset long term is what will reward you with the ability to drive any car you want at some point. Just stick with it bro.
Best of luck!

[Melon2.0]

Thanks for the kind words everyone!

I started a new thread elsewhere to discuss further.
https://datforumdoe.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1836

[coogles]

Whelp, the HVAC finally breathed its last breath last week, the whole system got replaced on Tuesday. Despite our savings account being $15k lighter I decided to grab carryout yesterday and took the 86. I then immediately picked up a screw the HVAC crew must have left in the driveway.

Even why I try to drive the thing I end up making it half a block.

Had the van serviced last week too. Nothing major to report, oil & filter, tire rotation, and a trans fluid service. The Honda DW1 trans fluid is super specific - I think Eneos and Redline are the only two companies that advertise a trans fluid to meet that spec. I wouldn't be surprised if a fluid other than DW1 was in there previously, the trans is shifting much smoother and quicker now, without the small hint of shudder going into second that was there previously. The rear shocks are feeling a bit tired, but otherwise the thing runs remarkably well for having 149k on it. They're not leaking, but there are some secondary motions back there that I don't think should be happening. Haven't driven one with really low miles to be 100% confident new shocks would cure that, but at least it wouldn't be a big expense. The only other thing noted on the inspection sheet is a slowly weeping power steering pump.

[max225]

I have been using the Honderp fluid exclusively... It is easier to change than the oil on the hondas I believe. And it's about 2-3 quarts each time and should be done every 30k to keep that shitty trans alive.

[Johnny_P]

Whelp, the HVAC finally breathed its last breath last week, the whole system got replaced on Tuesday. Despite our savings account being $15k lighter I decided to grab carryout yesterday and took the 86. I then immediately picked up a screw the HVAC crew must have left in the driveway.

Even why I try to drive the thing I end up making it half a block.

Had the van serviced last week too. Nothing major to report, oil & filter, tire rotation, and a trans fluid service. The Honda DW1 trans fluid is super specific - I think Eneos and Redline are the only two companies that advertise a trans fluid to meet that spec. I wouldn't be surprised if a fluid other than DW1 was in there previously, the trans is shifting much smoother and quicker now, without the small hint of shudder going into second that was there previously. The rear shocks are feeling a bit tired, but otherwise the thing runs remarkably well for having 149k on it. They're not leaking, but there are some secondary motions back there that I don't think should be happening. Haven't driven one with really low miles to be 100% confident new shocks would cure that, but at least it wouldn't be a big expense. The only other thing noted on the inspection sheet is a slowly weeping power steering pump.

149k miles of pothole slamming.. those shocks are at end of life.
Time for Bilsteins.

[coogles]

149k miles of pothole slamming.. those shocks are at end of life.
Time for Bilsteins.

I'll probably do it sooner than later, the parts aren't that expensive. The fronts honestly seem fine, it's possible they've been replaced already.

[coogles]

I have been using the Honderp fluid exclusively... It is easier to change than the oil on the hondas I believe. And it's about 2-3 quarts each time and should be done every 30k to keep that shitty trans alive.

Yeah it's a frequent service on these. Seems excessive, but whatever, it's not a huge deal.

[D Griff]

I have been using the Honderp fluid exclusively... It is easier to change than the oil on the hondas I believe. And it's about 2-3 quarts each time and should be done every 30k to keep that shitty trans alive.

Yeah it's a frequent service on these. Seems excessive, but whatever, it's not a huge deal.

My parent's Odyssey had three replacement transmissions and that fourth unit was acting mighty weird at the end when they dumped it. It did have 240K miles IIRC, but still, tranny at 60K miles is no bueno, I'd keep up with the changes.

[max225]

I have been using the Honderp fluid exclusively... It is easier to change than the oil on the hondas I believe. And it's about 2-3 quarts each time and should be done every 30k to keep that shitty trans alive.

Yeah it's a frequent service on these. Seems excessive, but whatever, it's not a huge deal.

Yea but they are simple drain and fills with a singular 12MM drain bolt and 2.5 quarts of that $10 a quart fluid.. I have been doing those on the TSX on the reg. I think they are all using a same/similar trans. Which caused the issue to begin with... it handle the 4 cylinder for 400k miles... but the V6s have been chewing up 4th gear IIRC

[MrH42]

149k miles of pothole slamming.. those shocks are at end of life.
Time for Bilsteins.

I'll probably do it sooner than later, the parts aren't that expensive. The fronts honestly seem fine, it's possible they've been replaced already.

Shocks are wear items. At 150k miles, they're all toast. Even if the front seems fine, it's hard to tell sometimes because it's a gradual decline. If you did all 4, you'd notice an immediate change.

How many miles have you put on the van yourself? Even if the fronts were potentially replaced at 50k or 75k miles, they're due.

[coogles]

I'll probably do it sooner than later, the parts aren't that expensive. The fronts honestly seem fine, it's possible they've been replaced already.

Shocks are wear items. At 150k miles, they're all toast. Even if the front seems fine, it's hard to tell sometimes because it's a gradual decline. If you did all 4, you'd notice an immediate change.

How many miles have you put on the van yourself? Even if the fronts were potentially replaced at 50k or 75k miles, they're due.

Shocks these days can easily last 100k+ miles if those miles aren't being accumulated in Philly or NYC.

I've put about 14k miles on it personally. There's nothing in the service history stating any of them have been replaced, it'll all get done eventually.

[Desertbreh]

Shocks are wear items. At 150k miles, they're all toast. Even if the front seems fine, it's hard to tell sometimes because it's a gradual decline. If you did all 4, you'd notice an immediate change.

How many miles have you put on the van yourself? Even if the fronts were potentially replaced at 50k or 75k miles, they're due.

Shocks these days can easily last 100k+ miles if those miles are being accumulated in Philly or NYC.

I've put about 14k miles on it personally. There's nothing in the service history stating any of them have been replaced, it'll all get done eventually.

Ehhhhh.

[golftdibrad1]

Shocks these days can easily last 100k+ miles if those miles are being accumulated in Philly or NYC.

I've put about 14k miles on it personally. There's nothing in the service history stating any of them have been replaced, it'll all get done eventually.

Ehhhhh.

Depends on the application and duty, and how you define 'last'. Raw age comes into it as well with gas charged, but a blanket statement on x number of years cant be made.

a performance shock is a far different animal than a passenger vehicle. If the roads are decent around where you drive 10 years or more and 120-130k is not unreasonable. They will be far off the optium by that point, but still passably functional.

[MexicanYarisTK]

It could be owned by a mom that would hit a curb at 60 mph and say oops and giggles

[coogles]

[coogles]

I did this backward, you guys. I knew this, but I also wanted the GR86 and wasn't willing to cave on that back in the summer of '22 when I bought this shit pile.

You spend the money on the daily, and for the weekend car, buy the beater shitbox that's still entertaining. If it breaks, oh well.

The spool valve (controls the variable timing) on the front head is leaking like a sieve. Repair advice varies. The main culprit seems to be the gasket between the two halves of the spool valve, but my mechanic seems to think they tend to leak from the bottom too. Replacing the top half is pretty easy, replacing the full unit requires removing the intake manifold, valve cover, and rocker arms. Then once you're that deep he's saying it makes sense to replace the one on the rear head as well, all for a cool $1,200. Replacing just the front only saves about $350 but if you had to do them both separately you're in for $850 each time.

To just replace the top half of the front spool valve is about $230 for the part, and I can DIY. But then if it's still leaking they'll have to buy the full assembly and I'll be out the $1,200 plus the $230 I just paid for the part. And if it leaks for too long it'll take out the alternator and probably battery that I just put in 8 months ago. Gotta love 150k mile shitboxes.

It also needs new rear shocks as discussed, new window trim for all four doors as it's dry rotting and cracking, and it's starting to rust in the rear wheelwells. I want to dump this thing so badly, but it'd take selling the 86 to do it now. I'm not going to DIY in the end, I've convinced them to try the cheaper fix and if, once they're in there, they can tell it's leaking from the bottom too, to do the full repair. Dumping $1,200 to repair a van worth $10,000 best-case is brutal, but when the alternative is a $35,000 loan? Ugh.

[D Griff]

I did this backward, you guys. I knew this, but I also wanted the GR86 and wasn't willing to cave on that back in the summer of '22 when I bought this shit pile.

You spend the money on the daily, and for the weekend car, buy the beater shitbox that's still entertaining. If it breaks, oh well.

The spool valve (controls the variable timing) on the front head is leaking like a sieve. Repair advice varies. The main culprit seems to be the gasket between the two halves of the spool valve, but my mechanic seems to think they tend to leak from the bottom too. Replacing the top half is pretty easy, replacing the full unit requires removing the intake manifold, valve cover, and rocker arms. Then once you're that deep he's saying it makes sense to replace the one on the rear head as well, all for a cool $1,200. Replacing just the front only saves about $350 but if you had to do them both separately you're in for $850 each time.

To just replace the top half of the front spool valve is about $230 for the part, and I can DIY. But then if it's still leaking they'll have to buy the full assembly and I'll be out the $1,200 plus the $230 I just paid for the part. And if it leaks for too long it'll take out the alternator and probably battery that I just put in 8 months ago. Gotta love 150k mile shitboxes.

It also needs new rear shocks as discussed, new window trim for all four doors as it's dry rotting and cracking, and it's starting to rust in the rear wheelwells. I want to dump this thing so badly, but it'd take selling the 86 to do it now. I'm not going to DIY in the end, I've convinced them to try the cheaper fix and if, once they're in there, they can tell it's leaking from the bottom too, to do the full repair. Dumping $1,200 to repair a van worth $10,000 best-case is brutal, but when the alternative is a $35,000 loan? Ugh.

Sorry bro I'd just track all of the maintenance and see what it's really costing you over all per month. Still probably a lot less than interest/depreciation on a new van.

[MrH42]

I did this backward, you guys.

Sorry to hear about the van issues. But you're right here. Having your daily be the beater is much more stressful than the fun car being the beater. Sell the 86 and van, upgrade to a newer daily, pickup a used MR2 Spyder or something for cheap as a weekend toy.

[coogles]

Sorry bro I'd just track all of the maintenance and see what it's really costing you over all per month. Still probably a lot less than interest/depreciation on a new van.

It 100% depends on how you look at it. I have, without question, spent WAY more money by buying this one used than I would have had I sold the GR86 back in 2022 and bought a new Odyssey at the time. I paid $17k OTD for this one, and I've put $4k into it in maintenance and repairs already. $2k of that was the timing belt job I knew it would need when I bought it, so it's more like $19k OTD and $2k into maintenance & repairs. But that's before the repairs it needs right now.

I rode two depreciation curves down from 2022 until now instead of one. I'm into the Odyssey for $21k+, and private party I could maybe get $10k for it. On trade I'd bet it's worth about $6k. I had a trade offer from the Honda dealership for the GR86 of $37k at the time, now it's worth maybe $29k.

I've lit essentially $20k on fire in 18 months for the privilege of driving the GR86 3,000 miles. Had I bought a new Odyssey then, I bet I'd have lost $10k at most over that same amount of time, and I'd be well on my way toward having that paid for.

None of that matters now, though. What matters is what to do from here, and to your point, I'm sure keeping it would still be cheaper than going out and buying something else now. I've already taken the beating on depreciation, now it's just maintenance, repairs, and the misery of driving and looking at the thing. There's also the fact that we are a one car payment household (at most), and so there would be no weekend car until the replacement is paid for.

[golftdibrad1]

I did this backward, you guys. I knew this, but I also wanted the GR86 and wasn't willing to cave on that back in the summer of '22 when I bought this shit pile.

You spend the money on the daily, and for the weekend car, buy the beater shitbox that's still entertaining. If it breaks, oh well.

This is the way unless you are rich

[D Griff]

Sorry bro I'd just track all of the maintenance and see what it's really costing you over all per month. Still probably a lot less than interest/depreciation on a new van.

It 100% depends on how you look at it. I have, without question, spent WAY more money by buying this one used than I would have had I sold the GR86 back in 2022 and bought a new Odyssey at the time. I paid $17k OTD for this one, and I've put $4k into it in maintenance and repairs already. $2k of that was the timing belt job I knew it would need when I bought it, so it's more like $19k OTD and $2k into maintenance & repairs. But that's before the repairs it needs right now.

I rode two depreciation curves down from 2022 until now instead of one. I'm into the Odyssey for $21k+, and private party I could maybe get $10k for it. On trade I'd bet it's worth about $6k. I had a trade offer from the Honda dealership for the GR86 of $37k at the time, now it's worth maybe $29k.

I've lit essentially $20k on fire in 18 months for the privilege of driving the GR86 3,000 miles. Had I bought a new Odyssey then, I bet I'd have lost $10k at most over that same amount of time, and I'd be well on my way toward having that paid for.

None of that matters now, though. What matters is what to do from here, and to your point, I'm sure keeping it would still be cheaper than going out and buying something else now. I've already taken the beating on depreciation, now it's just maintenance, repairs, and the misery of driving and looking at the thing. There's also the fact that we are a one car payment household (at most), and so there would be no weekend car until the replacement is paid for.

All true, but the reality is, depreciation on any/everything was huge from 2022 to now. I think we all expected that and it came to fruition. I basically ate $10K on my 86 as well... sucks but it's the cost to be the boss. Having two cars will always be more costly than one.