Personally, I'd just tear off the vinyl first thing...
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... did someone say stripes?
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I think it's worth a test drive at least. It's the only way to know if you enjoy it or not. I like the look and simplicity of the roadster far more, but the RF has advantages like supposedly better suspension out of the box, security, and better all weather capability.
The hard part will be transporting the doggie in it. Or if you want to trailer your bike, how much shit you can fit in the roadster to support that and your shenanigans for the weekend. I legit don't know if you'd fit riding gear, helmet, and a carry on of clothing and personal stuff in that car. Trunk is tiny. So I think keeping the FiST makes sense for that sort of thing.
Buy one, throw a header / exhaust / tune on it and go rip around. Would be hella fun. I want one of these really bad.
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Johnny_P wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2018 3:44 pmI think it's worth a test drive at least. It's the only way to know if you enjoy it or not. I like the look and simplicity of the roadster far more, but the RF has advantages like supposedly better suspension out of the box, security, and better all weather capability.
The hard part will be transporting the doggie in it. Or if you want to trailer your bike, how much shit you can fit in the roadster to support that and your shenanigans for the weekend. I legit don't know if you'd fit riding gear, helmet, and a carry on of clothing and personal stuff in that car. Trunk is tiny. So I think keeping the FiST makes sense for that sort of thing.
Buy one, throw a header / exhaust / tune on it and go rip around. Would be hella fun. I want one of these really bad.
All things to consider. I could work around the doggo issue w/ the wife's SUV. Cargo space is a legit concern - I seriously doubt we'd have enough room for the wife and I to pack for a week long trip, but I'd likely be fine for track shenanigans since it's usually just me and could toss the gear bag in the passenger seat, small cooler in the trunk, and the pit gear can find a home on the trailer.
If I were to go w/ 1 car solution then it's an RF without question. 2-car solution is a bit more up in the air. FiST is almost paid off, so having it around DD makes life a bit easier, but then having 2 cars +2 bikes and a trailer to maintain, tag, and insure gets to be a bit unsettling.
All of this would be a lot easier if the wife could drive then swapping vehicles around wouldn't be an issue.
I suspect that once it's warm again, my urge will subside.
Plus I have a few things in mind for the FiST in the coming months.
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I also wanna know if those reflectors are recessed into the fenders or just double sided adhesive. Because if I buy one, that's the first thing to go.
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RE Fiesta suspension:
Would really like to upgrade suspension with slightly stiffer springs (to reduce roll) and maintain near stock ride height. I’d prefer to stay away from away bars to tame body roll because the handling is so neutral as it is, and swapping bars to find the right balance can be an expensive habit
Looks like I can pick up a set of Bilstein B6 shocks/struts for about $400. Re-uses stock springs so ride height remains at OE height. So I can go this route and just live with the body roll (thought I am researching aftermarket Mazda2 springs)
OORRR I could pick up B14 coilovers for a standard fiesta/Mazda2 which would be near stock ride height for about $700. B14 include progressive springs (meh), but are still stiffer than stock, Also no camber plates to fuck with.
Side note: The Fiesta forums are the absolute worst resource to find details on any of these options. Example - nobody seems to know for sure if standard Fiesta coilovers are actually at ST stock ride height...mostly speculation and guessing. Nobody has measured
Would really like to upgrade suspension with slightly stiffer springs (to reduce roll) and maintain near stock ride height. I’d prefer to stay away from away bars to tame body roll because the handling is so neutral as it is, and swapping bars to find the right balance can be an expensive habit
Looks like I can pick up a set of Bilstein B6 shocks/struts for about $400. Re-uses stock springs so ride height remains at OE height. So I can go this route and just live with the body roll (thought I am researching aftermarket Mazda2 springs)
OORRR I could pick up B14 coilovers for a standard fiesta/Mazda2 which would be near stock ride height for about $700. B14 include progressive springs (meh), but are still stiffer than stock, Also no camber plates to fuck with.
Side note: The Fiesta forums are the absolute worst resource to find details on any of these options. Example - nobody seems to know for sure if standard Fiesta coilovers are actually at ST stock ride height...mostly speculation and guessing. Nobody has measured
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I'd honestly give some more thought to sway bars. If the intention is just to reduce roll, springs/shocks are going to have farther reaching negative impacts...like harsher ride and whatnot. There's got to be a good sway bar combo that replaces the front and rear that maintains the balance of the car with less roll. Then the ride won't be sacrificed.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 8:29 am I'd honestly give some more thought to sway bars. If the intention is just to reduce roll, springs/shocks are going to have farther reaching negative impacts...like harsher ride and whatnot. There's got to be a good sway bar combo that replaces the front and rear that maintains the balance of the car with less roll. Then the ride won't be sacrificed.
The general consensus is the FiST is undersprung and overdamped, so generally speaking I could improve bump compliance with better dampers and run stiffer springs without hurting Ride quality much. Also most of the springs for the FiST are progressive...a compromise, I know, but probably the right choice for a 97% street driven vehicle.
Unfortunately the forumbroes usually just go straight to coilovers or play around with various damper and spring combos so there’s not a lot of info on bar combos. My primary concern with bars is that I take one of the only FWD cars that refuses to understeer and make it so that it does.
Edit: I should also note that you have to lower the subframe in order to install a FSB
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See what the fast HS class autox guys run, and do that IMO.
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troyguitar wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 11:37 am See what the fast HS class autox guys run, and do that IMO.
Was researching that this morning as well. Looks like a common approach is rear shocks only (Koni yellow set to full hard ) + rear bar. Makes the car a little more tail happy, but seems to address the tripoding fairly well.
Some guys prefer Bilstein over Koni’s, but seems both seem to makes things happier.
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4zilch wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 1:04 pmtroyguitar wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 11:37 am See what the fast HS class autox guys run, and do that IMO.
Was researching that this morning as well. Looks like a common approach is rear shocks only (Koni yellow set to full hard ) + rear bar. Makes the car a little more tail happy, but seems to address the tripoding fairly well.
Some guys prefer Bilstein over Koni’s, but seems both seem to makes things happier.
be careful here because autox guys will 100% live with a WAY overdamped car to improve transitions but that can make for twitchy / rough road manners.
if you really only only want a little more roll stiffness.... you know the answer, and its sways. Get adjustable ones and dial it in to make it stock like.
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I feel like it's worth starting with a set of good struts and nothing else, then add a rear bar if you want - perhaps one that is not as big as the autox guys use.4zilch wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 1:04 pmtroyguitar wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 11:37 am See what the fast HS class autox guys run, and do that IMO.
Was researching that this morning as well. Looks like a common approach is rear shocks only (Koni yellow set to full hard ) + rear bar. Makes the car a little more tail happy, but seems to address the tripoding fairly well.
Some guys prefer Bilstein over Koni’s, but seems both seem to makes things happier.
It also might be worth adding front camber bolts if you find yourself rolling over the tires too much, they're cheap and simple to install when you do the struts.
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Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 3:45 pm4zilch wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 1:04 pm
Was researching that this morning as well. Looks like a common approach is rear shocks only (Koni yellow set to full hard ) + rear bar. Makes the car a little more tail happy, but seems to address the tripoding fairly well.
Some guys prefer Bilstein over Koni’s, but seems both seem to makes things happier.
be careful here because autox guys will 100% live with a WAY overdamped car to improve transitions but that can make for twitchy / rough road manners.
if you really only only want a little more roll stiffness.... you know the answer, and its sways. Get adjustable ones and dial it in to make it stock like.
After realizing the need to lower the front subframe to R&I the front sway I’m pretty much a on that. It’s not worth it that much to me and not something I really want to get into on the garage floor.
The goal is to improve bump compliance and reduce tri-pod while maintaining balance and ride height.
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That’s where I think I’ll end up. Shock/struts, stock springs (unless I can find stiffer springs that keep me at or near stock ride height) and add bar(s) as needed from there.troyguitar wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 4:14 pmI feel like it's worth starting with a set of good struts and nothing else, then add a rear bar if you want - perhaps one that is not as big as the autox guys use.4zilch wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 1:04 pm
Was researching that this morning as well. Looks like a common approach is rear shocks only (Koni yellow set to full hard ) + rear bar. Makes the car a little more tail happy, but seems to address the tripoding fairly well.
Some guys prefer Bilstein over Koni’s, but seems both seem to makes things happier.
It also might be worth adding front camber bolts if you find yourself rolling over the tires too much, they're cheap and simple to install when you do the struts.
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Sounds like you need a Quick Jack...4zilch wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 4:47 pmBig Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 3:45 pm
be careful here because autox guys will 100% live with a WAY overdamped car to improve transitions but that can make for twitchy / rough road manners.
if you really only only want a little more roll stiffness.... you know the answer, and its sways. Get adjustable ones and dial it in to make it stock like.
After realizing the need to lower the front subframe to R&I the front sway I’m pretty much a on that. It’s not worth it that much to me and not something I really want to get into on the garage floor.
The goal is to improve bump compliance and reduce tri-pod while maintaining balance and ride height.
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Apex wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 4:53 pmSounds like you need a Quick Jack...4zilch wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2018 4:47 pm
After realizing the need to lower the front subframe to R&I the front sway I’m pretty much a on that. It’s not worth it that much to me and not something I really want to get into on the garage floor.
The goal is to improve bump compliance and reduce tri-pod while maintaining balance and ride height.
I’m waiting for hazard fraught to make a version
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I'd just get a set of adjustable dampers and go from there. If it's not quite what you want then fuck with the rear bar. To hell with the front one. But it looks like Koni is the only manufacturer of adjustables for the FiST?
I might go coilover then. From my Focus days I remember lots of issues with Koni yellow shocks. A decent coilover should allow you to fine tune the ride a little better.
I might go coilover then. From my Focus days I remember lots of issues with Koni yellow shocks. A decent coilover should allow you to fine tune the ride a little better.