The Land of Saints and Scholars -Irish heads home

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First Trip - We flew into Shannon on the red eye. Flew Economy and my seat was broken in the upright position and the flight crew would not give me another seat. But I was so excited that I didnt care (much)
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Grabbed our rental (which was originally a manual GoLF but it had a flat so they gave us a Citroen C4 :notbad: )
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Our First Nights Stay was in the Hotel Woodstock in Ennis. The first day is kind of a blur. Getting used to driving on the left. We went in to Towne Center For coffee on the River Fergus.
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I think we dipped into a small casino for an hour and played automated roulette then did some window shopping. At the direction a fine red headed hostess, We headed down to Bunratty Castle.
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She said it would be closed but that we could eat at Durty Nellies right next door. But it turned out that the Castle was having a banquet, where the servers were also actors/singers in full medieval regalia. So needless to say we opted for that rather than touristy Nellies.
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It was quite fun. The meal was family style and not great but the entertainment was stellar. and we were in AN IRISH CASTLE!!! :fuckyeah:

{I will cover the rest of the trip later today, this was but a taste.....}
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Fucking-A! That banquet experience sounds :neat:
Moar...
:popcorn:
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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I forgot to mention that I tailored the trip to B&Bs within 90 minutes drive-time of one another, We had general areas we wanted to explore but did not stick to a hard and fast itinerary. I trusted the spirit of Eire to guide us and she did. We ended up almost always getting to our next lodging at the latest check in time (having explored the area we stayed in the night previous and then heading there).
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Next time I would (and DID) do it differently, mostly because dining options got limited the later it was. Overall I was less than impressed with the food on this first trip because I didn't really put any effort into choosing restaurants beforehand. I did much better the second go around.

Anyway, I found my journal entry from our first day and I will include it here.....as it is, marginally, more poetic than my previous post.
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After a pretty terrible flight, we landed in the small airport in Shannon. The customs agent asked me where “my heritage was” and when I told him Dundalk he smiled into my eyes, handed me my passport and said "Welcome Home". That has stayed with me until this day.

The rental car agent was very pleasant but informed me that the only manual they had had a flat. They upgraded is to a brand new Peugeot A4.

Driving on the left, we made our way to Ennis. We tried to Check in at the Hotel Woodstock but Louise (a very pretty red head) informed us that the room wasn’t ready. I mentioned Cliffs of Moher but she politely suggested that that might be a bit much on the first day. She suggested we take a stroll to Town Center. Her pronunciation of Schtrolll was enchanting, how could we resist? SO we set out for town center and was not having much luck until we realized that she meant the Center of Ennis. So off we went. Charming little town with church steeples and narrow streets. We parked and fed the meter with our first ever spend of Euros, We window shopped and stopped in a little casino to drop 10 Euros each on roulette. We ended up at O’Briens for coffee right on the river Fergus. Coffee and scones were delicious.

Made our way back, with my driving improving and checked in. The key didn’t work so Louise again assisted us. When we inquired about possibly having dinner in Galway she said that it was a city and the driving is was challenging and we might want to stay a bit closer. She suggested Bunratty Castle only 25 minutes away. She said it would likely be closed but that we could see it and then have dinner at Durty Nellies, A trademark pub in the area. So off we went.

We were walking around when we noticed that people were being admitted to the castle. After finding the entrance, a soft spoken bloke with a heavy brogue informs us that it was a banquet. Which we assumed was a private party…but it turned out that we were able to join for $65 Euros each. It turned out to be more of interactive dinner theater with the performers also acting as the servers. Enchanting. Food was only so-so as expected but the singing was great. We sat a long tables and ended up next to a mother-daughter from Florida who knew of Carlisle and the area of NJ that we are from. Very Nice.
It was great fun…and after they concluded with a stirring rendition of ( of course), Danny Boy. We headed down the narrow staircase for coffee which was again served by the cast. Bonus, there was an excellent bagpiper right outside the door.

After a confident drive back to the hotel we crashed at 9pm.

All in all, an amazing first day, especially considering how sleep deprived we were.

I love the Irish people. Genuine, funny, polite unaffected…..I am home.
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That's pretty much how I felt in France, despite having no family/heritage there. It was nice but also depressing.
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Day 2

After a wonderful "Full Irish" breakfast buffet. (This consists of Eggs to order, Irish bacon (Sort of like Canadian), sausage, potatoes, beans, soda bread or toast, tomatoes, mushrooms, and white and/or black pudding.)
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As we made our way to the Cliffs of Moher about 75 minutes to our north, I really started to get the hang of driving on the left . The cliffs were breathtaking. Simply stupendous. Pictures don't do it justice and everyone takes the same exact shots, but here are two of mine.
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We then made our way south towards our next stay in Killarney. Louise at the hotel had recommended taking a ferry from Killimer (County Clare) to Tarbot (Co. Kerry) . It would not only shave off time but would be scenic as well. We met two ladies from Fort Lauderdale (30 min from where we once lived) while waiting for it. Very nice.

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We stopped in the small town of Tarbert. Afternoon Tea and scones at the Tarbert Bridewell Courthouse and Jail Museum.

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The server was a young Latvian girl who had a mixture of Latvian and Irish dialects...wild wacky stuff and utterly charming. She recommended the Torc Falls in Killarney....

We arrived at the B&B which was fantastic. Set on a big property. The room was huge.

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Killarney
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Pre dinner we went to the Falls and they were spectacular.

Torq Waterfall
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Magic Stairs
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Towering Woodlands
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The whole walk was like being in a fairy tale, 1000 shades of green, so gorgeous.
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:megusta:
Did you see those cows at The Cliffs of Moher?
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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wap wrote: Sun Apr 23, 2023 5:36 pm :megusta:
Did you see those cows at The Cliffs of Moher?
Can't say that I did..... I had to look it up and frankly I am still not sure what you are referring to....
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Day 3

We set out for the Ring of Kerry today. It was just incredible. Picture's don't do it justice. Between the mountains and the ocean fronts it was just spectacular. I loved how multiple time we were driving through dense forests and the ocean would just appear. The bb host recommended a ferry to get Valentia island but we missed it some how and ended up having to criss cross back and forth. Once we got our bearing we made it to the Kerry Cliffs over looking the Skelligg rocks. SO WORTH IT.

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We had to drive up a fairly steep mountain with a one lane road....Was pretty hairy. From that point we were running late for check in at our next BB in Cobh (last embarkation point for the Titanic). So i did some of the most fun driving of my life....ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ROAD! Lots of twisties. We called and lady with a deep Irish brogue told us it was fine. The bb was hard to find (they all are because no house numbers in Ireland). So the Man of the house came down and guided us in. The house was nice but room was tiny. Had dinner at The Titanic restaurant. Was quite good. I had fish and chips and K had a chicken sandwich. The town was a little on the rougher side but the Cathedral was magnificent.
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We found our way back by pinning the house in the gps. So glad we got the upgraded car.
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Irish wrote: Sun Apr 23, 2023 7:53 pm
wap wrote: Sun Apr 23, 2023 5:36 pm :megusta:
Did you see those cows at The Cliffs of Moher?
Can't say that I did..... I had to look it up and frankly I am still not sure what you are referring to....
There was a small herd of them near that visitors center that's built into the hillside.
Here's one of them:
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:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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Irish wrote: Sun Apr 23, 2023 1:55 pm Day 2

After a wonderful "Full Irish" breakfast buffet. (This consists of Eggs to order, Irish bacon (Sort of like Canadian), sausage, potatoes, beans, soda bread or toast, tomatoes, mushrooms, and white and/or black pudding.)
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nice, even blood sausage.
Desertbreh wrote: Thu Sep 15, 2022 4:28 pm I'm happy for Brad because nobody jerks it to the Miata harder on this forum and that is the Crown Prince of Miatas.
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Day 4

We went on the Titanic Experience it was actually quite good. Treated us like we were boarding. Complete with "identities". There was video simulations and artifacts. We met a young girl who was a blacksmith the Czech Republic, Katerina. We exchanged coins and stories. She was student at Cork University where my son was slated to attend. .
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Actual Pier that the passengers embarked from
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Afterwards We set out for the Blarney Castle. It was incredible. We climbed to the top and, though I didn't plan to, I kissed the Stone. It rained for the first time since we've been here.
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We set out for Tramore, just south of Waterford. On the way in, it felt more city-like than what I had gotten used to but we were able to find the BB right away. Definitely the nicest of the trip. Tom (the innkeepers husband) took us to dinner at Esquire/Raglan Inn. K had twin fillet of white fish ...very good. I had beef wellington....it was deconstructed with a pate wrapped in pastry which i didn't like but prime rib on the side was great. The deserts were terrible though. Tom picked us up.

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Bfst the next morning was outstanding. The wife studied under a professor (At The College of COrk) that headed the excavation of Knowth, (a Neolithic passage grave/burial mound) which is where we were heading the following day.
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Day 5

We decided against Leap Castle and instead did the Kilkenny Castle. Was very cool. Started out as a medieval castle but ended up a mansion.
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Lunch was at a pub where I had lamb stew and a crisp sandwich (butter and potato chips on white bread, surprisingly good!).

Lamb Stew
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My better half having a pint for me

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Against my better judgement, I had a Guinness 0.0. Was cool But i will never do a a non-alcoholic beer again. Its so reminiscent, that my brain actually tries to force me to drink it to get drunk. Nope, bad idea.

Image for lyfe....

We then made our way to Trim. Checked into a well-run, businessy BB.... but these are a nice break from the homey ones where you feel like you are infringing a bit.

We ate very good pizza at a little pub and a local regaled us with stories about hiking the Appalachian trail, getting struck by lightning and being bitten by a brown recluse.

Breakfast was good. Great danish. And a coffee machine that made proper coffee. (Most places are using instant or brewing it so weak as to be the same). I have definitely developed a taste for tea.
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Day 6

We started the day with a pretty painless covid test.
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We then drove to New Grange. This is burial site that predates many of the pyramids. There is no written record on who built it. One had a a super cool feature where the "architect" designed it so that on the equinoxes the inner chamber (which is pitch black normally) illuminates at sunrise. Day stayed overcast. It was a cool guided tour though. A French mother/daughter appeared to have covid. There was a disabled lady and a mixed family with overbearingly annoying pre teen. But, all in all, a fun day.

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We then made our way to our last BB outside Dublin. We ate at a steakhouse in Malahide. Was decent not great. The BB was fine, nothing to write home about. Super Small shower. 2.4 miles from the airport :doe:.

Got flagged on departure, but it gave me a chance to interact with a charming Irish bloke right as we were leaving.

All in all a fantastic trip. I loved it even more than I knew I would. I am forever changed for having finally made it to my motherland and I plan to return again and again.

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This is so great. I feel the same way every time I go to Greece. Each visit is special in its own way but nothing quite equals that first one. I'm so glad you finally made it there and that it was everything you hoped/expected, and more. :like:

Did you spend any time at all in Dublin?

Any thoughts on visiting anywhere else in Europe, now that you've gotten a taste of the Old World and you now know how doable it is?
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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wap wrote: Mon Apr 24, 2023 2:53 pm This is so great. I feel the same way every time I go to Greece. Each visit is special in its own way but nothing quite equals that first one. I'm so glad you finally made it there and that it was everything you hoped/expected, and more. :like:

Did you spend any time at all in Dublin?

Any thoughts on visiting anywhere else in Europe, now that you've gotten a taste of the Old World and you now know how doable it is?
Thanks Fappy. Yes, even the second time it wasn't quite as magical.....but I still loved it. Still felt like where I belong. That time we flew in and out of Dublin. SO I built in a night there. Stayed a boutique hotel right near the center of town. Caught dinner nearby then Took a tram down (up?) to Temple Bar and walked around. It was cool being in the city and I will have to get back to take in the museums and what not, but given a choice, I will take natural beauty, the country side, the ocean and small towns over that any day of the week.

And yes, the rest of Europe is on the table now. As I mentioned , the original plan was to see my son in Lille while he was there. But the Dachshund put the kibash on that, although I certainly wasn't crushed to be forced to visit sonny boy in Ireland instead. ;-)

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However...... I know in my heart that as much as I might enjoy those different places, nothing will "feel" like Ireland to me. She calls to me each and every day. It might be the blow ups I have hanging in my living room, but I believe its way deeper than that. Blood Deep.

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Irish wrote: Mon Apr 24, 2023 7:39 pm
wap wrote: Mon Apr 24, 2023 2:53 pm This is so great. I feel the same way every time I go to Greece. Each visit is special in its own way but nothing quite equals that first one. I'm so glad you finally made it there and that it was everything you hoped/expected, and more. :like:

Did you spend any time at all in Dublin?

Any thoughts on visiting anywhere else in Europe, now that you've gotten a taste of the Old World and you now know how doable it is?
Thanks Fappy. Yes, even the second time it wasn't quite as magical.....but I still loved it. Still felt like where I belong. That time we flew in and out of Dublin. SO I built in a night there. Stayed a boutique hotel right near the center of town. Caught dinner nearby then Took a tram down (up?) to Temple Bar and walked around. It was cool being in the city and I will have to get back to take in the museums and what not, but given a choice, I will take natural beauty, the country side, the ocean and small towns over that any day of the week.

And yes, the rest of Europe is on the table now. As I mentioned , the original plan was to see my son in Lille while he was there. But the Dachshund put the kibash on that, although I certainly wasn't crushed to be forced to visit sonny boy in Ireland instead. ;-)

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However...... I know in my heart that as much as I might enjoy those different places, nothing will "feel" like Ireland to me. She calls to me each and every day. It might be the blow ups I have hanging in my living room, but I believe its way deeper than that. Blood Deep.

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:word:
I get your preference for nature, views, etc, but Dublin deserves a couple days. St Patrick's Cathedral, Trinity College, the Library/Book of Kells, there's a cool Viking museum, O'Connell Street, etc. Cool that you made it to Temple Bar, :doe: . Did you cross the Ha'penny Bridge?
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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Also, :wub: :dat: :doge: :doe:
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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Yeah next time will be a northern loop ending with getting to Dublin in the daylight. (It got Dark by 5 when we went in February).

Buster is sweet and fun but super attached to me and pretty high maintenance in this first yeat (he will be 1 in July). I wasn't really ready for another doggo after we lost my beloved Lab, Sadie last year. Had to put her down and it didn't go well. I am still haunted by this.

But I do love the little shit.
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Irish wrote: Mon Apr 24, 2023 8:47 pm Yeah next time will be a northern loop ending with getting to Dublin in the daylight. (It got Dark by 5 when we went in February).

Buster is sweet and fun but super attached to me and pretty high maintenance in this first year (he will be 1 in July). I wasn't really ready for another doggo after we lost my beloved Lab, Sadie last year. Had to put her down and it didn't go well. I am still haunted by this.

But I do love the little shit.
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Yeah, it's super tough to put a beloved pet down. :( But I'm sure you did the right thing.
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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wap wrote: Mon Apr 24, 2023 8:57 pm Yeah, it's super tough to put a beloved pet down. :( But I'm sure you did the right thing.
It was time. But I really wish I would have paid the freight for the house call. It was ridiculously high compared to what the Vet charged...but knowing what I know now, It would have been worth it to make her last minutes fear free.
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For you Fappy

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Irish wrote: Tue Apr 25, 2023 11:45 am For you Fappy

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:datass: :jimp:
Love seeing those over in Europe.
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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The second trip (in less than a year) was precipitated by my son having won a year abroad scholarship. He spent his first semester in Lille, France and we were slated to visit him there. However, the night before our flight, our new dachshund chewed my wife's passport up. It wasn't terrible, I sent pictures to a rep at the airline and she said we were good. However after driving 3 hours to the airport the desk agent would not allow us to board with it. We had bought non refundable tickets and were shit out of luck. Those will be the last dollars that airline (French Bee) gets from us, ever.

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His second semester is in Cork and so we waited and then visited him there.

We flew Aer Lingus. The flight was fine, much more comfortable than the last time. I had booked a Nissan Qashqai because I wanted something I couldnt drive over here, but they gave me a Hyundai Tuscon. :dissappoint: But Actually it worked out great as it was a bit bigger and thus more comfortable for the four of us. And hey, right hand drive and shifting a manual left handed is something challenging and new, so zfg.

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This is the route I painstakingly mapped out.

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This time we took my middle son , Griffin along and we flew into Dublin and then made a leisurely trip by car down to Cork. I had stops planned, the first of which was Powerscourt Waterfall in the Wicklow Mountains. However we got there pre dawn and the park didn't open until 9. My re-introduction to driving on the left was in the rainy dark and after a red eye flight and twisty single lane roads, I decided to chill until daylight. The next POI was to be Sally Pass in the center of a renowned road-trip route between Glencree and Glendalough. It lived up to the hype. Just beautiful.

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We stopped for a bite at Bunters Coffee Shop in Newtown Mount Kennedy....a real local type joint, no frills but really cozy (sat right next to the fireplace) and really good.

Next stop was Miners Way. 1800s ruins of a lead mine. Set in a picturesque valley.

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We then drove up to Glencree Centre for Peace and Reconciliation. This was originally a British barracks in the early 1800's then a reform school, then briefly a refugee sanctuary now part of a
world wide charity focused on conflict resolution.

{photos not found} The pics I found don't align with our experience driving into it. It was cool, kind of tucked into woodlands and seemed more ancient than it really is,

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We pretty much made our way down to Cork from here. Got some snacks along the way. I loves me some Taytos.

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Got into Cork. My first real city-like driving in Ireland. No sweat. Checked into our B&B which was adjoining the College of Cork Campus and just a few blocks away from my sons apartment. We chilled and waited for him to be done with class for the day.

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Last edited by Irish on Sat Apr 29, 2023 10:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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When my son got off school we had our requisite tearful reunion, then went off to dinner down the street at Ignite Grill, an Indian joint. Was quite good, I had some form of mixed grill (Lamb Shish, Chicken Shish, Chicken Wings & Lamb Chops. Served with Salad & Naan Bread.)

We were quite wiped out at the end of the first day. So we crashed Early.

Breakfast was really good, my son joined us and the innkepper invited him to stop in for a free breakfast anytime on his way to class.

We asked Ry to show us around campus.

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We then set out to Visit Kinsale, a small fishing Village to the south. Very quaint.

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We had lunch at Dinos...really good locally caught fish dishes

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It was the plan was to space the B&Bs to within an hour of each other this time because we were going to covering a lot less ground. The idea was just to give my son a good tour of the more off-the-beaten path areas, because he can easily bus to do the touristy stuff on weekends. So we headed along the southern coast. Which was a lot prettier than the pics suggest.

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Our next Stay was at Casey's Hotel of Baltimore. Nice place, right on the water and known for its sustainability, its seafood restaurant and its own small seafood farms. I talked Griffin into the home grown mussels and they were the best I have ever tasted, buttery, plump and succulent. I had their special white fish (I disremember what it was exactly) and it was delish.

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