DFD

Johnny_P wrote:

wap wrote: You're welcome!
The only thing I can think of is that maybe there is a split in the hot water supply line somewhere and there is an electronic valve that is controlled by the thermostats that opens and closes to let hot water up to the second zone, but I don't really know for sure.

WAP is right on the equipment identification. Not sure on dual zone. Would need to analyze the system.

wap wrote:

Johnny_P wrote: WAP is right on the equipment identification. Not sure on dual zone. Would need to analyze the system.

I've been dealing with hot water heat most of my life.

Isn't the water line with the pump the hot water supply ?

Johnny_P wrote: ↑Mon Feb 27, 2017 9:23 am I took advantage of the nice weekend and bled the radiators.

Simple procedure. Only I missed one step. More on that in a minute...

Get a radiator key from your local hardware store or HD or whatever
Turn off the thermostat
Go to the highest radiator in the house, hold a rag or towel up to the bleed valve.
Turn the bleed valve open a quarter turn or so, just until you can hear air hissing out, close it when a steady stream of water flows out of it
Top off the system if you run out of pressure to push air out by closing the bleed valve and opening your cold water make up supply to the boiler. Watch the pressure gauge, don't go HAM with it, keep it to like 12-15 PSI or so max.
Repeat with all the radiators in the house, going from top to bottom.
Top off the system and leave it at about 10-12 PSI, close the make up valve, turn the thermostat back on and check for leaks. You want less than 30 PSI when the system is hot.

Where I fucked up is I didn't record the cold pressure so on start up I overpressured the system and the safety valve dumped into the basement. Not a ton of water just a burp but still, it was stupid of me. Oh well.

Now I need to make sure it'll hold 10 PSI cold. But I released a TON of air from the system.
Note: This only works for circulating hot water systems. Steam systems have an automatic bleed on each radiator.

wap wrote: ↑Mon Feb 27, 2017 12:30 pm

Johnny_P wrote: ↑Mon Feb 27, 2017 9:23 am I took advantage of the nice weekend and bled the radiators.

Simple procedure. Only I missed one step. More on that in a minute...

Get a radiator key from your local hardware store or HD or whatever
Turn off the thermostat
Go to the highest radiator in the house, hold a rag or towel up to the bleed valve.
Turn the bleed valve open a quarter turn or so, just until you can hear air hissing out, close it when a steady stream of water flows out of it
Top off the system if you run out of pressure to push air out by closing the bleed valve and opening your cold water make up supply to the boiler. Watch the pressure gauge, don't go HAM with it, keep it to like 12-15 PSI or so max.
Repeat with all the radiators in the house, going from top to bottom.
Top off the system and leave it at about 10-12 PSI, close the make up valve, turn the thermostat back on and check for leaks. You want less than 30 PSI when the system is hot.

Where I fucked up is I didn't record the cold pressure so on start up I overpressured the system and the safety valve dumped into the basement. Not a ton of water just a burp but still, it was stupid of me. Oh well.

Now I need to make sure it'll hold 10 PSI cold. But I released a TON of air from the system.
Note: This only works for circulating hot water systems. Steam systems have an automatic bleed on each radiator.

Couple things:

You should do this at the beginning of the heating season.
I've never bothered to turn off the thermostat when doing it.
I use a small cup to catch the water, but I guess a rag works, too.
The water supply valve is a pressure sensing valve, at least on my system, so it automatically opens to let in more water to the system if it senses a need. I guess your's isn't?

Johnny_P wrote: ↑Mon Feb 27, 2017 4:09 pm

wap wrote: ↑Mon Feb 27, 2017 12:30 pm

Couple things:

You should do this at the beginning of the heating season.
I've never bothered to turn off the thermostat when doing it.
I use a small cup to catch the water, but I guess a rag works, too.
The water supply valve is a pressure sensing valve, at least on my system, so it automatically opens to let in more water to the system if it senses a need. I guess your's isn't?

Yeah it should be done early. I'm a and let it go though.
I turned off the thermostat and waited until it was warm enough because I didn't want to deal with scalding hot water
The supply valve in mine is pressure sensing but the supply line valves were closed. I guess I could leave it open.... But shouldn't need to. I adjusted it so it supplies less pressure though.

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 9:44 pm For anyone that has steam heating and wants to figure it out for themselves, this is a must read:

https://www.amazon.com/Lost-Art-Steam-H ... am+heating

I bought it back in September before I fired the boiler for the first time, and read it cover to cover. It's fascinating how much goes into steam heat and how much these old dudes figured out with math and whatnot so long ago.

Anyway, after reading the book, I was able to identify a number of issues with my heating system that I've since corrected and it's been 5/7 for the last month of running it. I spent $500 on parts AND the book and accomplished more than I could get "professionals" to do for over $1k.

As an aside, I've decided that steam heat repair will be my fall back career. I absolutely love it.

wap wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:12 pm

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 9:44 pm For anyone that has steam heating and wants to figure it out for themselves, this is a must read:

https://www.amazon.com/Lost-Art-Steam-H ... am+heating

I bought it back in September before I fired the boiler for the first time, and read it cover to cover. It's fascinating how much goes into steam heat and how much these old dudes figured out with math and whatnot so long ago.

Anyway, after reading the book, I was able to identify a number of issues with my heating system that I've since corrected and it's been 5/7 for the last month of running it. I spent $500 on parts AND the book and accomplished more than I could get "professionals" to do for over $1k.

As an aside, I've decided that steam heat repair will be my fall back career. I absolutely love it.

I love the simplicity of hot water heat. Just had my boiler tuned up a few weeks ago. $60. And I won't have to do it for another 2 years.

[user not found] wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:26 pm

wap wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:12 pm

I love the simplicity of hot water heat. Just had my boiler tuned up a few weeks ago. $60. And I won't have to do it for another 2 years.

I wish I had hot water radiant heating.

At least I have a new forced air handler doe.

Need to insulate the shit out of this house.

[user not found] wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:26 pm

wap wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:12 pm

I love the simplicity of hot water heat. Just had my boiler tuned up a few weeks ago. $60. And I won't have to do it for another 2 years.

I wish I had hot water radiant heating.

At least I have a new forced air handler doe.

Need to insulate the shit out of this house.

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:28 pm

wap wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:12 pm

I love the simplicity of hot water heat. Just had my boiler tuned up a few weeks ago. $60. And I won't have to do it for another 2 years.

You have a bit more mechanical bits than I do. I don't have any pumps to circulate anything, it's all pressure (super low, it's actually a "vapor/vacuum" system), and my radiators should in theory heat more efficiently.

And now that I have the thing figured out, it should be years before I need to screw with it again. The biggest challenge was learning it because most people have no idea what the hell the system is.

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:30 pm

[user not found] wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:26 pm

I wish I had hot water radiant heating.

At least I have a new forced air handler doe.

Need to insulate the shit out of this house.

We absolutely love radiant heat. The entire house feels warmer and it doesn't get as dry, which is nice.

The issues are A/C is a bitch and most people have no idea how to work on radiant heat. Forced air is pretty well known and worked out at this point.

[user not found] wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:43 pm

wap wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:40 pm

At least you have central air

It works gloriously, too.

Winter is gonna be cold doe. We’ve been keeping the house at 60 at night, 64 in the day. Doesn’t seem to cycle a ton but I’m waiting to see what the heating bill looks like before I raise it any.

[user not found] wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:48 pm

wap wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:46 pm
Dang that's cold.

I grew up in a house with no insulation and wood heat for years, I’m used to it.

Adding layers is easy in the winter. Taking them off only gets you so far in the summer

[user not found] wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:48 pm

wap wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:46 pm
Dang that's cold.

I grew up in a house with no insulation and wood heat for years, I’m used to it.

Adding layers is easy in the winter. Taking them off only gets you so far in the summer

Desertbreh wrote: ↑Thu Dec 07, 2017 6:42 pmHeater?

[user not found] wrote: ↑Thu Dec 07, 2017 7:43 pm

Desertbreh wrote: ↑Thu Dec 07, 2017 6:42 pmHeater?

Barely knew 'er!

[user not found] wrote: ↑Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:16 am

Detroit wrote:

And I agree, we keep our house a bit on the cold side. The thermostat is ancient and just gives a range, but it's probably between 65 and 70 all the time. I don't adjust it ever, there's no benefit with turning steam heat down because when you turn it back up, it runs forever. Just set it and forget it in the winter. I just turn it down if we're gone for a while.

That. 67 all winter long unless we aren't home.

fledonfoot wrote: ↑Fri Dec 08, 2017 2:59 pm

[user not found] wrote: ↑Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:16 am That. 67 all winter long unless we aren't home.

I have a wifi thermostat that has a temperature offset option built in. The wife likes the house at 70 degrees all the time. In the summer I can make it read 3 degrees lower than it really is, and 3 warmer in the winter.

Win.

[user not found] wrote: ↑Wed Dec 13, 2017 12:18 am

Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Tue Dec 12, 2017 10:05 am

[haterade4zill]
thats deceitful and dirty, you should be ashamed of yourself.
[/haterade4zill]


That's actually brilliant.

Not even sure where this round of hate comes from, because it is brilliant.