DFD

Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Tue Sep 05, 2017 7:14 pm

Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Tue Sep 05, 2017 4:59 pm

oil pressure and engine speed are connected. most cars have 'idiot' gauges and lights that dont move or only come on or flash if there is a problem.

A common mod on a miata is to install a real oil pressure sender.

take home message: fix your (low) idle problem and the oil pressure is likely fine.

Yes I do need a real sensor.

I also have no idea where to begin with the low idle problem. I am not experienced with wrenching on a car. And everyone I am talking to says its probably my oil pump.

My only other option is taking the car into a shop and having them go at it.

Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Tue Sep 05, 2017 7:14 pm

Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Tue Sep 05, 2017 4:59 pm

oil pressure and engine speed are connected. most cars have 'idiot' gauges and lights that dont move or only come on or flash if there is a problem.

A common mod on a miata is to install a real oil pressure sender.

take home message: fix your (low) idle problem and the oil pressure is likely fine.

Yes I do need a real sensor.

I also have no idea where to begin with the low idle problem. I am not experienced with wrenching on a car. And everyone I am talking to says its probably my oil pump.

My only other option is taking the car into a shop and having them go at it.

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 8:04 am Low idle won't be tied to the oil pump. I'd check for vacuum leaks first. May have something to do with the Turbro. Did you change the ecu yet? Could also be tuning maybe.

So many things can contribute to a low idle issue. Oil pump is major surgery. Rule #1 of working on a car is start with all the simple/cheap fixed and move up in difficulty from there.

Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 8:08 am

Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Tue Sep 05, 2017 7:14 pm

Yes I do need a real sensor.

I also have no idea where to begin with the low idle problem. I am not experienced with wrenching on a car. And everyone I am talking to says its probably my oil pump.

My only other option is taking the car into a shop and having them go at it.

a shop is going to bring the rape on a modified car.

Look at what detroit said. Its prob a vacuum leak.

Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:45 am

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 8:04 am Low idle won't be tied to the oil pump. I'd check for vacuum leaks first. May have something to do with the Turbro. Did you change the ecu yet? Could also be tuning maybe.

So many things can contribute to a low idle issue. Oil pump is major surgery. Rule #1 of working on a car is start with all the simple/cheap fixed and move up in difficulty from there.

Still the original ECU. Its immediately attempting to die so idling the car is an issue. Ill have to just start checking connections and hoses.

The turbro could very well be the major culprit. A lot of additional hoses and connections.

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:17 am

Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:45 am

Still the original ECU. Its immediately attempting to die so idling the car is an issue. Ill have to just start checking connections and hoses.

The turbro could very well be the major culprit. A lot of additional hoses and connections.

Yep, sounds like a massive vac leak, or if the car has an idle air control valve, that can be the culprit.

If the car has a MAF or the like, I've had those screw up idle before too.

Can you get the thing to idle at all?

Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:22 am

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:17 am Yep, sounds like a massive vac leak, or if the car has an idle air control valve, that can be the culprit.

If the car has a MAF or the like, I've had those screw up idle before too.

Can you get the thing to idle at all?

If I keep on the throttle it will. But otherwise the car is immediately trying to die or revs will jump everywhere.

Ive actually heard the IACV is another issue. Keep the ideas coming.

Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:26 am

Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:22 am

If I keep on the throttle it will. But otherwise the car is immediately trying to die or revs will jump everywhere.

Ive actually heard the IACV is another issue. Keep the ideas coming.

This is classic vacumm leak / IACV shit

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:29 am

Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:26 am

This is classic vacumm leak / IACV shit

Sure sounds like it to me. Are IACV's cheap for these? Might be worth picking one up to try out.

Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:44 am

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:29 am
Sure sounds like it to me. Are IACV's cheap for these? Might be worth picking one up to try out.

$250 from autozone is the cheapest I can get.

Im going to hit a few junk yards up for some used ones to try out first. If this ends up being the issue. I will keep a few on hand. Im also going to check for other possible leaks. This could save me quite a bit of time and hassle.

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:46 am

Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:44 am

$250 from autozone is the cheapest I can get.

Im going to hit a few junk yards up for some used ones to try out first. If this ends up being the issue. I will keep a few on hand. Im also going to check for other possible leaks. This could save me quite a bit of time and hassle.

Gah, same as I remember it being on other cars. That's some shit. The issue with replacing with a used one is you don't necessarily know if that one is good either. But I guess it's worth a try if you can find one (or a few) for cheap.

Check for vac leaks first. That's free. It's easier if you can get the car to idle, but you can still do a visual on all hoses and connections first without it running. If anything looks dry or rotted...it could be a culprit.

Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:49 am

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:46 am
Gah, same as I remember it being on other cars. That's some shit. The issue with replacing with a used one is you don't necessarily know if that one is good either. But I guess it's worth a try if you can find one (or a few) for cheap.

Check for vac leaks first. That's free. It's easier if you can get the car to idle, but you can still do a visual on all hoses and connections first without it running. If anything looks dry or rotted...it could be a culprit.

with a modded car and metered air going a million places....I'd virtually guarantee it's an air leak.

Unplug the MAF to see if the helps.... i bet it does. Then you know, air leak.

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:57 am

Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:49 am



with a modded car and metered air going a million places....I'd virtually guarantee it's an air leak.

Unplug the MAF to see if the helps.... i bet it does. Then you know, air leak.

Will it even run with the MAF unplugged? Many cars won't.

Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:08 am

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:57 am
Will it even run with the MAF unplugged? Many cars won't.

pretty sure it will, it defaults into a basic settings open loop mode and throws a CEL.

Detroit wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:46 am

Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:44 am

$250 from autozone is the cheapest I can get.

Im going to hit a few junk yards up for some used ones to try out first. If this ends up being the issue. I will keep a few on hand. Im also going to check for other possible leaks. This could save me quite a bit of time and hassle.

Gah, same as I remember it being on other cars. That's some shit. The issue with replacing with a used one is you don't necessarily know if that one is good either. But I guess it's worth a try if you can find one (or a few) for cheap.

Check for vac leaks first. That's free. It's easier if you can get the car to idle, but you can still do a visual on all hoses and connections first without it running. If anything looks dry or rotted...it could be a culprit.

4zilch wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2017 6:46 pm I supposed that potentially the electronics could be set up in such a way to not run unless oil pressure is seen.

Cut open the filter and see what it looks like. If there's damage it'll be loaded with metal. If not, top it off and run it. (Also try to figure out where the oil is going). My guess is past the rings on a boosted car.

Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2017 5:55 pm Pulled the maf and Iacv. Both were cleaned and reinstalled. I checked hoses and didn't notice any tears or loose connections.

But here is the big issue. I drained the oil and strained it. No debris. However only 1qt drained. So I managed to leak out 3qts on the drive to and from Atlanta. That was a lot of 70+ mph driving and an autocross.

I refilled the car and started it up. Everything sounds fine and it idled great. But I'm blocked in the garage and there is a bit of a storm.

I have a feeling there is probably some damage in the engine.


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4zilch wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2017 6:46 pm I supposed that potentially the electronics could be set up in such a way to not run unless oil pressure is seen.

Cut open the filter and see what it looks like. If there's damage it'll be loaded with metal. If not, top it off and run it. (Also try to figure out where the oil is going). My guess is past the rings on a boosted car.

Detroit wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2017 6:05 pm Not quite sure how low oil would cause an idle issue, but I suppose there's a chance? Lesson learned: old and modded cars, check the oil constantly. Especially with that turbo setup, there's a good chance oil consumption is real.

You may or may not have nuked the engine. If running it low on oil caused something, you'd likely know.