It will remain a mystery until something breaks.wap wrote:You're welcome!Calvinball wrote:
Thanks Fap!
So how the hell does the dual zone work??
The only thing I can think of is that maybe there is a split in the hot water supply line somewhere and there is an electronic valve that is controlled by the thermostats that opens and closes to let hot water up to the second zone, but I don't really know for sure.
Home heating
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New house is about 1300 Sq ft plus a 400 Sq ft finished walk out basement. Has electric baseboard heat which are the pinnacle of inefficient. Main level has a coal stove I've been using. Heats whole main level to the upper 70s so no need for baseboard heat except in basement. Relighting fire and cleaning out ash suck big time but I got two tons of coal delivered for 500 and that will last all winter and half of next. Notbad.jpg
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Literally rolling coal in the casa!dtraill27 wrote:New house is about 1300 Sq ft plus a 400 Sq ft finished walk out basement. Has electric baseboard heat which are the pinnacle of inefficient. Main level has a coal stove I've been using. Heats whole main level to the upper 70s so no need for baseboard heat except in basement. Relighting fire and cleaning out ash suck big time but I got two tons of coal delivered for 500 and that will last all winter and half of next. Notbad.jpg
That's how my mother heated her house when she was a little girl back in the 1930's. Her mother would wake up super early, bring up a load of coal in the coal scuttle, then light the stoves to get the house warm before everyone else in the house woke up. Didn't think domestic coal heat was even still a thing, along with home coal delivery.
I'd say you have a heating system that's even more old fashioned than DPlacs Thomas the Tank Engine steam heat.
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Yeah I never thought I'd be burning coal but it's legit. Usually load it in the morning before work and again when I get home. Get 8 - 12 hours burn time with no maintenance. Dat blessed lands anthracite
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dtraill27 wrote:Yeah I never thought I'd be burning coal but it's legit. Usually load it in the morning before work and again when I get home. Get 8 - 12 hours burn time with no maintenance. Dat blessed lands anthracite
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My grandpa was a mining engineer in mother russia, getting the good black stuff in Сибирь... it is a miracle he is alive ... and in retrospect me... He had some epic stories.dtraill27 wrote:I'll be able to tell my grandkids about how I got the black lung
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My grandfather was a coal miner for a long time. He lived to be 101 years old. Had cancer twice doe.maxtdi wrote:My grandpa was a mining engineer in mother russia, getting the good black stuff in Сибирь... it is a miracle he is alive ... and in retrospect me... He had some epic stories.dtraill27 wrote:I'll be able to tell my grandkids about how I got the black lung
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My cousin has coal burning stoves in his house. They get it for free in the river. Lots of coal in the river bed from old mining operations, sunken barges and rafts, etc.dtraill27 wrote:Yeah I never thought I'd be burning coal but it's legit. Usually load it in the morning before work and again when I get home. Get 8 - 12 hours burn time with no maintenance. Dat blessed lands anthracite
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Would destroy the floor for sure. I would run it to the basement drain if possible.Big Brain Bradley wrote:a huge fucking mess if that T&P valve ever opens. run that bitch outside ASAPCalvinball wrote:
So what the hell am I looking at?
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WAP is right on the equipment identification. Not sure on dual zone. Would need to analyze the system.wap wrote:You're welcome!Calvinball wrote:
Thanks Fap!
So how the hell does the dual zone work??
The only thing I can think of is that maybe there is a split in the hot water supply line somewhere and there is an electronic valve that is controlled by the thermostats that opens and closes to let hot water up to the second zone, but I don't really know for sure.
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So the pipe off of what you labeled as the pressure safety valve should be re-routed.Johnny_P wrote:WAP is right on the equipment identification. Not sure on dual zone. Would need to analyze the system.wap wrote: You're welcome!
The only thing I can think of is that maybe there is a split in the hot water supply line somewhere and there is an electronic valve that is controlled by the thermostats that opens and closes to let hot water up to the second zone, but I don't really know for sure.
How bout the "gas dirt trap." Anything I need to do with that?
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Route it to your basement drain if you want. Might want to check regulations if you're allowed to do this or not. But if the boiler over pressures for whatever reason it'll dump scalding hot water all over the place. Kind of like a water heater rupture.Calvinball wrote:So the pipe off of what you labeled as the pressure safety valve should be re-routed.Johnny_P wrote: WAP is right on the equipment identification. Not sure on dual zone. Would need to analyze the system.
How bout the "gas dirt trap." Anything I need to do with that?
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The dirt trap shouldn't ever need to be cleaned out. It's there just in case, to catch iron bits, dirt, whatever else in the pipe before the gas enters your regulator and burners. The dirt will just fall into that leg of pipe, the gas will continue to the regulator. Just don't tie into the gas pipe from that spot.
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Once a year or so you're supposed to flush the boiler to clear out built-up iron deposits and stuff in the boiler tubes. To do that, turn off the gas and electric, connect a hose to the drain valve and route it to your basement drain, note the current system pressure on the pressure indicator. Close the cold water make up valve, open the drain valve. Watch the stuff coming out, it will be dirty. When it runs clean close the drain valve. Top off the system, open the make up valve and watch the pressure indicator. When you're at the right pressure you close that make up valve. Get radiator keys and vent the radiators. Open the valve on the top of the radiator and let the air out, when water starts to dribble out close the valve. Do that to each radiator in the house starting from bottom to top. Check system pressure between radiator venting and adjust with the make up valve. When you're done you can re energize and light the boiler.
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Thanks for all the advice guise.
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Also. Adobe has awesome free online picture editing software. It's af.[user not found] wrote:Dat gas dirt trap.Johnny_P wrote: WAP is right on the equipment identification. Not sure on dual zone. Would need to analyze the system.
I just learned so much.
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strikes again?[user not found] wrote:In February, gas company is surveying our neighborhood to lay lines.
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Your driveway is 3 football fields?[user not found] wrote:Fine by me. 300 yards to the street.Johnny_P wrote: Get ready for royally fucked up roads.
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[user not found] wrote:You know what I met but fail anywayCalvinball wrote: Your driveway is 3 football fields?
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