Desertbreh wrote:Noob question. Let's say you air up your tires and ride like a short commute...........3-5 miles. Before riding the next day do all of you guys air up again to ride at max performance pressure bro?
My current tubeless stuff loses about 10% of its pressure per day so I do pump them up every day.
My vintage regular tires and tubes it was more like once a week that they'd be down enough to notice.
D Griff wrote: Carbon is better, the acceleration difference is
I couldn't tell much (any) acceleration difference from changing frames the first time - only going to lighter wheels+tires and lower rolling resistance tires was a big enough change for me to notice. We'll see how it goes this time.
You're twice as strong as me if not more, so it makes sense that you'd benefit more from additional rigidity.
It won't quite be a fair initial comparison because I'm going to try the tubed conti ultra sports once to satisfy my own curiosity. 2 tires and tubes were $58 total.
D Griff wrote: Carbon is better, the acceleration difference is
I couldn't tell much (any) acceleration difference from changing frames the first time - only going to lighter wheels+tires and lower rolling resistance tires was a big enough change for me to notice. We'll see how it goes this time.
You're twice as strong as me if not more, so it makes sense that you'd benefit more from additional rigidity.
It won't quite be a fair initial comparison because I'm going to try the tubed conti ultra sports once to satisfy my own curiosity. 2 tires and tubes were $58 total.
I also haven't ridden an aluminum road bike ever other than on an indoor trainer... so I am somewhat talking out my ass. But man, coming off of a light on my two bikes is completely different, and out of the gate I seem to just put 5 bike lengths on everyone on my carbon bike. I guess the weight obviously comes in to play as well, but it is a major "feel" thing where you can just tell way more power is transmitting through the pedals to the wheel.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Thu Mar 25, 2021 12:17 pm
Noob question. Let's say you air up your tires and ride like a short commute...........3-5 miles. Before riding the next day do all of you guys air up again to ride at max performance pressure bro?
Nah, for me it is about once a week, or if the temperature changes dramatically.
I still have tubes in my bikes like a poor though.
I just submitted my bike for and they offered $2310 cash. Dunno how much they take away for shipping or whatever
That's exactly what I paid for it, guess I could ask more to sell it myself...
You have to box it yourself or pay to have that done, but they give you a prepaid shipping label.
Hmmm I could sell the Orbea
But then I would have to find a new MTB... so nah. I will probably just keep the Orbea to the 10 year mark. Hopefully in 2026 the craziness will be over and I can actually test ride some
troyguitar wrote: ↑Thu Mar 25, 2021 9:01 pm
No, how would that even work?
Man, I am stupidly excited to get this bike on Monday. No idea why, my bike is fucking cool.
Because new bike day is the best day.
also taking something old and left behind and breathing new life into it is fun.
I am actually starting to map out a Raleigh Restomod project.
@Troy when you were looking into 1X setups for old steel bikes did you find any useful articles/videos? I have a line on some 105 wheels, think I’m going to convert to those in 700c and would like to do a 1x10 with used 105 setup in the back but I’m not sure what I would need at the crank.
also taking something old and left behind and breathing new life into it is fun.
I am actually starting to map out a Raleigh Restomod project.
@Troy when you were looking into 1X setups for old steel bikes did you find any useful articles/videos? I have a line on some 105 wheels, think I’m going to convert to those in 700c and would like to do a 1x10 with used 105 setup in the back but I’m not sure what I would need at the crank.
You want a narrow-wide chainring and with your strength you probably want it to have 50-53 teeth which could be a pain to find off the shelf. The easiest option is something like this plus a new BB to match the GXP spindle:
The cheapest option is probably to find an old ass triple crank, remove all 3 stock chain rings, and install an aftermarket 50T in the middle position. Kind of a PITA and you'll still spend around $100 anyway, I'd just buy the SRAM part and do it right.
Oh, also make sure that you have clearance for a big chainring to sit further inboard without hitting your chainstay... if not, you'll have to make some compromises/choices playing with spacers and whatnot.
You want a narrow-wide chainring and with your strength you probably want it to have 50-53 teeth which could be a pain to find off the shelf. The easiest option is something like this plus a new BB to match the GXP spindle:
The cheapest option is probably to find an old ass triple crank, remove all 3 stock chain rings, and install an aftermarket 50T in the middle position. Kind of a PITA and you'll still spend around $100 anyway, I'd just buy the SRAM part and do it right.
He may not need a narrow-wide if it's just going to be a road-only steed. Could probably go with a clutched RD and be fine, either GRX or Ultegra RX.
Narrow wide is what I'd recommend for gravel/dirt stuff, 100% though.
Maybe not necessary but they exist for not much premium so I'd lean toward sticking with the narrow-wide. I like never thinking about chains no matter what.
105/ultegra 10-speed shifters (5700/6700) can use (10 speed or less) MTB rear derailleurs too. Last I knew they still made the XT 10-speed 11-36 cassette which would be a nice piece with a used 8/9/10-speed MTB derailleur.
The other shifter/derailleur option is Tiagra 4700 or GRX 10-speed shifter with the GRX or Ultegra RX derailleurs like you mentioned, or really even a plain old R7000-GS. Lots of options.
troyguitar wrote: ↑Fri Mar 26, 2021 11:00 am
Oh, also make sure that you have clearance for a big chainring to sit further inboard without hitting your chainstay... if not, you'll have to make some compromises/choices playing with spacers and whatnot.
You'll probably be playing with spacers anyway to get the chainline where you need it to be.
Now that I think about it, a 1x MTB crank and BB might be a better start since you'll have more spacers to play with and the cranks are more common. I don't know if anyone makes big enough chainrings for them
Super helpful place to start, thanks y'all! FWIW I think this would mostly be for road use but I'd like the option to have a gravel wheelset for it should that ever become a thing I want to do. I will also probably do some sidewalk hopping and whatnot as it would be for commuting/brewery hopping.
Funny enough I am actually about to order an XT 11-36 cassette for the Orbea, maybe I'll just throw two in the cart
Other random questions... anyone use Teravail Honcho MTB s? I'm also going to go t00bless I think, trying it out on the MTB first and then maybe will jump over on the Ribble too. What is the goop of choice? It seems MucOff/Orange may be better than Stans according to the internet.
You'll probably be playing with spacers anyway to get the chainline where you need it to be.
Now that I think about it, a 1x MTB crank and BB might be a better start since you'll have more spacers to play with and the cranks are more common. I don't know if anyone makes big enough chainrings for them
I admittedly haven't looked that hard but I was thinking that they would be too tiny.
stuff loses about 10% of its pressure per day so I do pump them up every day.
tires and tubes it was more like once a week that they'd be down enough to notice. Carbon is better, the acceleration difference is
if not more, so it makes sense that you'd benefit more from additional rigidity.
tubed conti ultra sports once to satisfy my own curiosity. 2 tires and tubes were $58 total. 
and they offered $2310 cash. Dunno how much they take away for shipping or whatever 
also taking something old and left behind and breathing new life into it is fun.
part and do it right.
s? I'm also going to go t00bless I think, trying it out on the MTB first and then maybe will jump over on the Ribble too. What is the goop of choice? It seems MucOff/Orange may be better than Stans according to the internet.
