troyguitar wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 2:52 pm
Yeah I have 2 stems, just need a $15 bar and some grips. Might want to actually get "good" grips, that's the one thing I really remember from my brief test on the Trek FX bikes. The FX3 grips were waaay more comfy than the FX2. It had these which only work on the trek bar, but there must be a decent generic option with a similar shape:
troyguitar wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 2:52 pm
Yeah I have 2 stems, just need a $15 bar and some grips. Might want to actually get "good" grips, that's the one thing I really remember from my brief test on the Trek FX bikes. The FX3 grips were waaay more comfy than the FX2. It had these which only work on the trek bar, but there must be a decent generic option with a similar shape:
troyguitar wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 3:53 pm
Eh screw it, I've gone this far. Flat bar and some Ergon grips totaled $48 shipped. Guess those trumpbux are getting spent after all.
I bought a hitch carrier for my car off the good book market place for 50 bucks. hopefully we can find some paths with less aggressive hills than the neighborhood.
Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 4:23 pm
I bought a hitch carrier for my car off the good book market place for 50 bucks. hopefully we can find some paths with less aggressive hills than the neighborhood.
Welcome to this part of the world, you get used to the hills over time.
How do you tell which cranks work with which bearings and which bearings work with which frames? I'm not buying anything until I get a chance to test the flat vs drop bars more but there's semi-local dudes with these:
Welcome to this part of the world, you get used to the hills over time.
Hills will get you fit in a hurry.
I've been making it a point to go out and hit some big climbs, and my big jump in FTP wattage was largely due to that.
In my area it seems like average is about 50' of elevation gain per mile. It's certainly not mountains, but some of the climbs are definitely a challenge. I'd like to get up and ride some/all of the Blue Ridge Parkway one of these days, but...
In my area it seems like average is about 50' of elevation gain per mile. It's certainly not mountains, but some of the climbs are definitely a challenge. I'd like to get up and ride some/all of the Blue Ridge Parkway one of these days, but...
Do you use anything to pre-map rides before you go out, or do you just go?
I usually just look at Google and map out a sort of guestimate of what I'll do, then go. Mostly around here I know the area really well, so know what to expect. Last week at the beach, it's all pretty flat so I just went with roads I thought would be nice to ride on. I did just sign up for the Strava with the free 60 day trial so maybe I'll try that mapping out.
[user not found] wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 5:59 pm
Look up the P/N via google, find the original manufacturer page, and it'll tell you what BB it's compatible with.
So a frame that fits a "threaded BB" fits more or less any threaded BB? I was half expecting there to be different thread pitches and shit but couldn't find any specs anywhere.
[user not found] wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 5:59 pm
Look up the P/N via google, find the original manufacturer page, and it'll tell you what BB it's compatible with.
So a frame that fits a "threaded BB" fits more or less any threaded BB? I was half expecting there to be different thread pitches and shit but couldn't find any specs anywhere.
For years it was English or Italian thread and that was it. Italian thread died. English thread is the only threaded standard still left. So at least it’s easy if you have a threaded frame to know what BB you need. That said. The BB you need is dependent upon the crank itself because there are about 500 axle standards now.
Your stock BB is a square taper axle. Which is fine. Just old tech now. You might be able to find a square taper crank to fit on it. A new BB is probably only like $30-$50, but remember you need tools to extract the old crank, extract the old BB, install the new BB and they’re all different tools.
troyguitar wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 6:31 pm
So a frame that fits a "threaded BB" fits more or less any threaded BB? I was half expecting there to be different thread pitches and shit but couldn't find any specs anywhere.
For years it was English or Italian thread and that was it. Italian thread died. English thread is the only threaded standard still left. So at least it’s easy if you have a threaded frame to know what BB you need. That said. The BB you need is dependent upon the crank itself ol: because there are about 500 axle standards now.
Your stock BB is a square taper axle. Which is fine. Just old tech now. You might be able to find a square taper crank to fit on it. A new BB is probably only like $30-$50, but remember you need tools to extract the old crank, extract the old BB, install the new BB and they’re all different tools.
That's all easy enough. I already have most of the tools, minus whatever a new BB might need. Dunno if I'll ever go that far regardless
Even 1x11 is kinda tough now that I think about it unless you get a wide range cassette which would mean a new XD rear hub. 40/11 for a downhill gear isn't very fast.
I've been making it a point to go out and hit some big climbs, and my big jump in FTP wattage was largely due to that.
In my area it seems like average is about 50' of elevation gain per mile. It's certainly not mountains, but some of the climbs are definitely a challenge. I'd like to get up and ride some/all of the Blue Ridge Parkway one of these days, but...
heard that. we need it too. but this hill was nuts. it was more like 50 feet in 1/8 mile. like the top of a 2 story house was same elevation as the basement by the 3rd. trial by fire eh?
Johnny_P wrote:
For years it was English or Italian thread and that was it. Italian thread died. English thread is the only threaded standard still left. So at least it’s easy if you have a threaded frame to know what BB you need. That said. The BB you need is dependent upon the crank itself ol: because there are about 500 axle standards now.
Your stock BB is a square taper axle. Which is fine. Just old tech now. You might be able to find a square taper crank to fit on it. A new BB is probably only like $30-$50, but remember you need tools to extract the old crank, extract the old BB, install the new BB and they’re all different tools.
That's all easy enough. I already have most of the tools, minus whatever a new BB might need. Dunno if I'll ever go that far regardless
Even 1x11 is kinda tough now that I think about it unless you get a wide range cassette which would mean a new XD rear hub. 40/11 for a downhill gear isn't very fast.
Right a 1x system has compromises which include gear range. But, thinking more about this you shouldn’t need more than 1:1 low gear, you could easily do a 46t front ring and an 11-46 mountain bike cassette, which is fine because you want mountain bike type bars and shifters.
46x11 on fat ass tires.... is pretty close to 50x11 on skinny ass tires which is a common road bike top gear anymore. Taller tires affect overall gearing on bikes same as they do on cars. I think the measurement is “gear inches” or something. Sheldon brown likely has articles on this.
So yeah you could get a 1x11 specific crankset with a 44 or 46t ring and it would be pretty good overall.
In my area it seems like average is about 50' of elevation gain per mile. It's certainly not mountains, but some of the climbs are definitely a challenge. I'd like to get up and ride some/all of the Blue Ridge Parkway one of these days, but...
heard that. we need it too. but this hill was nuts. it was more like 50 feet in 1/8 mile. like the top of a 2 story house was same elevation as the basement by the 3rd. trial by fire eh?
D Griff wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 5:56 pm
In my area it seems like average is about 50' of elevation gain per mile. It's certainly not mountains, but some of the climbs are definitely a challenge. I'd like to get up and ride some/all of the Blue Ridge Parkway one of these days, but...
heard that. we need it too. but this hill was nuts. it was more like 50 feet in 1/8 mile. like the top of a 2 story house was same elevation as the basement by the 3rd. trial by fire eh?
That's what it is like here. It's ~150 ft up over the last ~mile or less depending on which route you take. So when you're tired and ready to be home, you get a painful climb instead of a cooldown. Lots of bigger hills all over too.
That's all easy enough. I already have most of the tools, minus whatever a new BB might need. Dunno if I'll ever go that far regardless
Even 1x11 is kinda tough now that I think about it unless you get a wide range cassette which would mean a new XD rear hub. 40/11 for a downhill gear isn't very fast.
Right a 1x system has compromises which include gear range. But, thinking more about this you shouldn’t need more than 1:1 low gear, you could easily do a 46t front ring and an 11-46 mountain bike cassette, which is fine because you want mountain bike type bars and shifters.
46x11 on fat ass tires.... is pretty close to 50x11 on skinny ass tires which is a common road bike top gear anymore. Taller tires affect overall gearing on bikes same as they do on cars. I think the measurement is “gear inches” or something. Sheldon brown likely has articles on this.
So yeah you could get a 1x11 specific crankset with a 44 or 46t ring and it would be pretty good overall.
Hills
I might just need a 46/30 double crank or something.
Troy FWIW if I were to re gear my bike I would go with a 46-30 crankset and an 11-32 cassette.
46x11 is plenty enough top gear for what I do. 30x32 low gear is a hair easier than what I have now. All in a package that is lighter than what I have due to much lighter cassettes.
If I were doing 1x I’d want 42t ring on a 10-42 sram XD cassette. 1:1 low gear is the hardest I can deal with for the rides I do, I’m fully maxed out on some of the mountain bike climbs with 1:1 gearing.
Big Brain Bradley wrote:
heard that. we need it too. but this hill was nuts. it was more like 50 feet in 1/8 mile. like the top of a 2 story house was same elevation as the basement by the 3rd. trial by fire eh?
That's what it is like here. It's ~150 ft up over the last ~mile or less depending on which route you take. So when you're tired and ready to be home, you get a painful climb instead of a cooldown. Lots of bigger hills all over too.
The “climbs” in my area are about a mile and 300 ish ft elevation gain.
Go to middle of the state though and whoooooo boy you’re in for a real ass whoopin.
troyguitar wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 8:43 pm
That's what it is like here. It's ~150 ft up over the last ~mile or less depending on which route you take. So when you're tired and ready to be home, you get a painful climb instead of a cooldown. Lots of bigger hills all over too.
The “climbs” in my area are about a mile and 300 ish ft elevation gain.
Go to middle of the state though and whoooooo boy you’re in for a real ass whoopin.
Yeah we have hills like that all over, but I have avoided them so far. If I ever get outside I'll probably be wanting a ton of gearing range. Likely just keep my triple.
Shimano has that new 48/31 "gravel" crank which could be with a standard 11-34 rear. I have 50/11 high and 30/32 low now and have used both, one for downhill and one for up.
In hindsight the 50/11 is probably not necessary at all if I just pedal faster like I've been doing on the trainer. Definitely want the weakass less than 1:1 climbing gears
8th day in a row on the new 20 minute plan. HR and pain are going down a bit, power is going up. Had some pain in the knees yesterday so I revisited my seat height, raised it up probably a full inch, seems a bit better today. Up from 140 to 166 watt average.
Even with my high-angle 17 degree 100mm stem upside down and 50mm of spacers underneath it, my bars are not "that" high - they're basically dead even with the top of the seat if not a tick below it now that I've raised it up closer to the "right" height. I guess my frame is more "racy" than I thought.
With the seat up this high, plus the trainer lifting the bike a little further off the ground, it's super awkward to get on/off the bike. I guess you have to jump on it like you would a horse?
I rode my mountain bike for the first time in a month. Man, it felt like going from the to the , very odd. Also, I now suck at mountain biking, 1/7. I will probably go again this weekend to some easier trails. The super technical shit just isn't that fun to me.
D Griff wrote: ↑Thu Jun 04, 2020 12:17 pm
I rode my mountain bike for the first time in a month. Man, it felt like going from the to the , very odd. Also, I now suck at mountain biking, 1/7. I will probably go again this weekend to some easier trails. The super technical shit just isn't that fun to me.
Yeah that happens, you gotta kind of do both. But, do both, and they will help you build strength in each other. Like, road biking will make you a better mountain biker because of the endurance aspect. Mountain biking will make you a better at road sprinting, bike control, and balance.
troyguitar wrote: ↑Thu Jun 04, 2020 11:51 am
8th day in a row on the new 20 minute plan. HR and pain are going down a bit, power is going up. Had some pain in the knees yesterday so I revisited my seat height, raised it up probably a full inch, seems a bit better today. Up from 140 to 166 watt average.
Even with my high-angle 17 degree 100mm stem upside down and 50mm of spacers underneath it, my bars are not "that" high - they're basically dead even with the top of the seat if not a tick below it now that I've raised it up closer to the "right" height. I guess my frame is more "racy" than I thought.
With the seat up this high, plus the trainer lifting the bike a little further off the ground, it's super awkward to get on/off the bike. I guess you have to jump on it like you would a horse?
Don't feel bad about taking a few days off. A rest day thrown in there weekly is a good thing.
Strava with the free 60 day trial so maybe I'll try that mapping out.
because there are about 500 axle standards now.
ol: because there are about 500 axle standards now.
triple. 
to the 
, very odd. Also, I now suck at mountain biking, 1/7. I will probably go again this weekend to some easier trails. The super technical shit just isn't that fun to me.