I'd love to see the total cost of ownershit for leasing a m3 vs buying a jeep for 1.75 years. I just cant see how a m3 lease is jeep than buying a heep for 2 years and trading it in.
Jeeponomics 101: Eternal tirekicking for the gutless Jeep
- max225
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For the sake of argument, lets do 2 years.
Best jeep is around 46k+TAX + fees + a trip to Idaho, I'll disregard those trip expenses.
~51k OTD for the jeep.
~35k value at the end of the 2 years or so, seems reasonable for a jeep with ~25k miles
~$300 in maintenance costs
~$679 a month
~16,300
My current M3 cost is
~770 a month x24
~2600 incentive from the dude bro
~671 a month
~16120
So nearly the same but slightly less. The shorter the term the more in favor the M3 goes over a Heep. My current lease term is 18 months so it tips a bit into that favor...
Also let's not forget the M3 carries a ~79,800 MSRP vs the jeep at ~52k or so. I'll revisit the Heep scenario in 18 months, I have no issues waiting for the market to settle.
2018 m3 lease figures:
Leasing details
$839first month's payment$3,000down payment$0security deposit$925acquisition fee
$4764 at sign
+839/mo *23
I see $24k over 2 years providing you can even get a 24 mo lease and not the 36mo. Thats before taxes.
A $50k JLU? If it holds its projected (or JKU) trade/resale value, thats a $809/mo on a 60mo loan.Thats assuming you get it for $45k 0 zero, which should be doable.
so excluding taxers and insurance $ to $. thats $19416 over 2 years. So $4500 cheaper to hold. Assuming you made the basic payment youd owe around $20,330.09 in 2020. Its trade would be $35k on the LOWEST side. So math enters and you walk away $14670 up after paying out $19k over 2 year... Thats like $5k cost of ownershit
math dont lie. I rest my case.
Leasing details
$839first month's payment$3,000down payment$0security deposit$925acquisition fee
$4764 at sign
+839/mo *23
I see $24k over 2 years providing you can even get a 24 mo lease and not the 36mo. Thats before taxes.
A $50k JLU? If it holds its projected (or JKU) trade/resale value, thats a $809/mo on a 60mo loan.Thats assuming you get it for $45k 0 zero, which should be doable.
so excluding taxers and insurance $ to $. thats $19416 over 2 years. So $4500 cheaper to hold. Assuming you made the basic payment youd owe around $20,330.09 in 2020. Its trade would be $35k on the LOWEST side. So math enters and you walk away $14670 up after paying out $19k over 2 year... Thats like $5k cost of ownershit
math dont lie. I rest my case.
- max225
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I gave you my actual payment figures? I have no idea what you just posted here. I am comparing a JLU to a lease take-over deal on the car i actually purchased. I also provided the BEST deals in the country on the JLU which is 7k off sticker which most ppl don't get.dubshow wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 8:19 pm 2018 m3 lease figures:
Leasing details
$839first month's payment$3,000down payment$0security deposit$925acquisition fee
$4764 at sign
+839/mo *23
I see $24k over 2 years providing you can even get a 24 mo lease and not the 36mo. Thats before taxes.
A $50k JLU? If it holds its projected (or JKU) trade/resale value, thats a $809/mo on a 60mo loan.Thats assuming you get it for $45k 0 zero, which should be doable.
so excluding taxers and insurance $ to $. thats $19416 over 2 years. So $4500 cheaper to hold. Assuming you made the basic payment youd owe around $20,330.09 in 2020. Its trade would be $35k on the LOWEST side. So math enters and you walk away $14670 up after paying out $19k over 2 year... Thats like $5k cost of ownershit
math dont lie. I rest my case.
I don't care what the current BMW offers are as they are not relevant to my situation. Obviously, an M3 is a far more expensive vehicle with more depreciation, but I managed to make it work. Why would I exclude taxes? That's the thing that fks me up the most especially on expensive cars. It is a REAL COST.
I missed your post. was actually plugging in numbers to look at them closely. It seems you have a pretty good deal on the lease then. I didnt know you were doing another lease take over.max225 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 8:27 pmI gave you my actual payment figures? I have no idea what you just posted here. I am comparing a JLU to a lease take-over deal on the car i actually purchased. I also provided the BEST deals in the country on the JLU which is 7k off sticker which most ppl don't get.dubshow wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 8:19 pm 2018 m3 lease figures:
Leasing details
$839first month's payment$3,000down payment$0security deposit$925acquisition fee
$4764 at sign
+839/mo *23
I see $24k over 2 years providing you can even get a 24 mo lease and not the 36mo. Thats before taxes.
A $50k JLU? If it holds its projected (or JKU) trade/resale value, thats a $809/mo on a 60mo loan.Thats assuming you get it for $45k 0 zero, which should be doable.
so excluding taxers and insurance $ to $. thats $19416 over 2 years. So $4500 cheaper to hold. Assuming you made the basic payment youd owe around $20,330.09 in 2020. Its trade would be $35k on the LOWEST side. So math enters and you walk away $14670 up after paying out $19k over 2 year... Thats like $5k cost of ownershit
math dont lie. I rest my case.
I don't care what the current BMW offers are as they are not relevant to my situation. Obviously, an M3 is a far more expensive vehicle with more depreciation, but I managed to make it work. Why would I exclude taxes? That's the thing that fks me up the most especially on expensive cars. It is a REAL COST.
- max225
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Yea it was pretty tough to get, but so is getting a JLU at 7k off sticker. Both are s that require a lot of work. And quite apples to oranges as welldubshow wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 8:45 pmI missed your post. was actually plugging in numbers to look at them closely. It seems you have a pretty good deal on the lease then. I didnt know you were doing another lease take over.max225 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 8:27 pm
I gave you my actual payment figures? I have no idea what you just posted here. I am comparing a JLU to a lease take-over deal on the car i actually purchased. I also provided the BEST deals in the country on the JLU which is 7k off sticker which most ppl don't get.
I don't care what the current BMW offers are as they are not relevant to my situation. Obviously, an M3 is a far more expensive vehicle with more depreciation, but I managed to make it work. Why would I exclude taxes? That's the thing that fks me up the most especially on expensive cars. It is a REAL COST.
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Y tho ?!fledonfoot wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 10:27 pmIt's in the driveway. It's dark and rainy and I've spent 15 hours in car dealerships today.
Post up deal details also
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Because I work in a dealership and spent 12.5 hours there prepping for our track day next month before picking up the Renegade.max225 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 11:05 pmY tho ?!fledonfoot wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 10:27 pm
It's in the driveway. It's dark and rainy and I've spent 15 hours in car dealerships today.
Post up deal details also
Ultimately ended up getting the Renegade for Invoice minus holdback, $6750 in rebates/dealer cash thanks to it being a "leftover". First payment and acquisition fee down(~$1k), $296/mo including NJ taxes. Went with the massive amount of cash back and leasing with US Bank at .00020 instead of leasing with Chrysler and taking the .00001 MF and losing $2k of incentive money.
It's an Omaha Orange TrailHawk, with the Navigation, Cold Weather, Premium/Leather package. MSRP was $31,405. I say "leftover" because it's a 2017 model that was built 1/18 - they started building 2018 base models as they were finishing the 17 Limited/Trailhawks apparently.
I took the easy deal vs fighting for more of a discount, for sure. Total time spent negotiating was maybe 20 minutes once I was there. They had the car, it's what she wanted, they were no-bullshit in the end and weren't super pushy in the box.
As far as I'm concerned, this is a do-over for the wife after the Mini. That car got ruined for her. I'm just so happy it's over for her. I'll drive it for the last 4 months of the lease to keep some miles off the GTI for now, and she gets out of "that car".
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Pretty decent deal, 1k down and 270 a month pre tax on a 31k vehicle is pretty much what you aim for. 1% of msrp a month 0 down.fledonfoot wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 11:25 pmBecause I work in a dealership and spent 12.5 hours there prepping for our track day next month before picking up the Renegade.
Ultimately ended up getting the Renegade for Invoice minus holdback, $6750 in rebates/dealer cash thanks to it being a "leftover". First payment and acquisition fee down(~$1k), $296/mo including NJ taxes. Went with the massive amount of cash back and leasing with US Bank at .00020 instead of leasing with Chrysler and taking the .00001 MF and losing $2k of incentive money.
It's an Omaha Orange TrailHawk, with the Navigation, Cold Weather, Premium/Leather package. MSRP was $31,405. I say "leftover" because it's a 2017 model that was built 1/18 - they started building 2018 base models as they were finishing the 17 Limited/Trailhawks apparently.
I took the easy deal vs fighting for more of a discount, for sure. Total time spent negotiating was maybe 20 minutes once I was there. They had the car, it's what she wanted, they were no-bullshit in the end and weren't super pushy in the box.
As far as I'm concerned, this is a do-over for the wife after the Mini. That car got ruined for her. I'm just so happy it's over for her. I'll drive it for the last 4 months of the lease to keep some miles off the GTI for now, and she gets out of "that car".
How many miles on the lease ?
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12k/yr. She’s averaging 6k/yr on the mini but we barely drive it because she hates it. Her commute is 10 miles a day.max225 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 11:36 pmPretty decent deal, 1k down and 270 a month pre tax on a 31k vehicle is pretty much what you aim for. 1% of msrp a month 0 down.fledonfoot wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 11:25 pm
Because I work in a dealership and spent 12.5 hours there prepping for our track day next month before picking up the Renegade.
Ultimately ended up getting the Renegade for Invoice minus holdback, $6750 in rebates/dealer cash thanks to it being a "leftover". First payment and acquisition fee down(~$1k), $296/mo including NJ taxes. Went with the massive amount of cash back and leasing with US Bank at .00020 instead of leasing with Chrysler and taking the .00001 MF and losing $2k of incentive money.
It's an Omaha Orange TrailHawk, with the Navigation, Cold Weather, Premium/Leather package. MSRP was $31,405. I say "leftover" because it's a 2017 model that was built 1/18 - they started building 2018 base models as they were finishing the 17 Limited/Trailhawks apparently.
I took the easy deal vs fighting for more of a discount, for sure. Total time spent negotiating was maybe 20 minutes once I was there. They had the car, it's what she wanted, they were no-bullshit in the end and weren't super pushy in the box.
As far as I'm concerned, this is a do-over for the wife after the Mini. That car got ruined for her. I'm just so happy it's over for her. I'll drive it for the last 4 months of the lease to keep some miles off the GTI for now, and she gets out of "that car".
How many miles on the lease ?
This will turn in to the bike car... we’ll take it mountain biking both days on the weekends (on the longer distance rides that can easily be 200-240 miles in a weekend) and do all of the utility work for the house... and some occasional off road exploits in the pine barrens.
- max225
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Yes makes sense. Hope you guys enjoy it ! It is a very neat little suv. It’ll do everything a jlu will for the average person for a fraction of the price.fledonfoot wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 11:50 pm12k/yr. She’s averaging 6k/yr on the mini but we barely drive it because she hates it. Her commute is 10 miles a day.
This will turn in to the bike car... we’ll take it mountain biking both days on the weekends (on the longer distance rides that can easily be 200-240 miles in a weekend) and do all of the utility work for the house... and some occasional off road exploits in the pine barrens.
Are the overage charges reasonable ? Honda only wants 15 cents a mile for ex
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So do I.
She said this morning that she's nervous about driving it, because the last time she got what she wanted it was destroyed in a couple of months.
I'm just glad it's gone for her. Hopefully she can move on now.
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I'm sure the story has been told, and I just cant remember it, but how was the Mini destroyed?fledonfoot wrote: ↑Wed Mar 28, 2018 8:49 amSo do I.
She said this morning that she's nervous about driving it, because the last time she got what she wanted it was destroyed in a couple of months.
I'm just glad it's gone for her. Hopefully she can move on now.
- max225
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Ejecto door! Accident that should have totaled the car but instead it was fixed for something like 50 days and nearly 70% of the value of the carSAWCE wrote: ↑Wed Mar 28, 2018 11:13 amI'm sure the story has been told, and I just cant remember it, but how was the Mini destroyed?fledonfoot wrote: ↑Wed Mar 28, 2018 8:49 am
So do I.
She said this morning that she's nervous about driving it, because the last time she got what she wanted it was destroyed in a couple of months.
I'm just glad it's gone for her. Hopefully she can move on now.
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Untitled by Fledonfoot, on FlickrSAWCE wrote: ↑Wed Mar 28, 2018 11:13 amI'm sure the story has been told, and I just cant remember it, but how was the Mini destroyed?fledonfoot wrote: ↑Wed Mar 28, 2018 8:49 am
So do I.
She said this morning that she's nervous about driving it, because the last time she got what she wanted it was destroyed in a couple of months.
I'm just glad it's gone for her. Hopefully she can move on now.
She was t-boned 3 months into ownership. Driver's door got ripped off by the crash support structure on the car that hit her. Door came in and crushed her left hand before the car spun around.
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That's right. Brutal.. I'd hate to live with that car after that too.fledonfoot wrote: ↑Wed Mar 28, 2018 11:28 amUntitled by Fledonfoot, on Flickr
She was t-boned 3 months into ownership. Driver's door got ripped off by the crash support structure on the car that hit her. Door came in and crushed her left hand before the car spun around.