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Thedude
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wap wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 5:21 pm
Thedude wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 5:06 pm Bad news about the R... VW cannot get it to go straight. Alignment all green but car drifts to right. Not sure what the next step is...
Tars?
Check pressure and rotated them but still no dice.

Had a minor low speed accident in a snow storm where I fishtailed and hit a curb with back passenger wheel. Vw replaced the control arm and wheel and did an alignment. I noticed steering wheel was off a hair and it drifted slightly to right. Took it back and they messed with it for 5 hours today and basically are throwing their hands up in the air.
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Thedude wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 5:25 pm
wap wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 5:21 pm

Tars?
Check pressure and rotated them but still no dice.

Had a minor low speed accident in a snow storm where I fishtailed and hit a curb with back passenger wheel. Vw replaced the control arm and wheel and did an alignment. I noticed steering wheel was off a hair and it drifted slightly to right. Took it back and they messed with it for 5 hours today and basically are throwing their hands up in the air.
Second opinion/better shop?
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wap
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D Griff wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 5:34 pm
Thedude wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 5:25 pm
Check pressure and rotated them but still no dice.

Had a minor low speed accident in a snow storm where I fishtailed and hit a curb with back passenger wheel. Vw replaced the control arm and wheel and did an alignment. I noticed steering wheel was off a hair and it drifted slightly to right. Took it back and they messed with it for 5 hours today and basically are throwing their hands up in the air.
Second opinion/better shop?
Yea I was also thinking another/better alignment shop.
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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Thedude
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D Griff wrote:
Thedude wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 5:25 pm Check pressure and rotated them but still no dice.

Had a minor low speed accident in a snow storm where I fishtailed and hit a curb with back passenger wheel. Vw replaced the control arm and wheel and did an alignment. I noticed steering wheel was off a hair and it drifted slightly to right. Took it back and they messed with it for 5 hours today and basically are throwing their hands up in the air.
Second opinion/better shop?
VW agrees
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max225
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How fast were you going when you hit the curb. I had a pretty significant impact once in my TDI. And later on it took 2/3 times to get it straight.

Also only the rear and not the front? You sure there was no frontal impact?
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Thedude
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max225 wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 6:27 pm How fast were you going when you hit the curb. I had a pretty significant impact once in my TDI. And later on it took 2/3 times to get it straight.

Also only the rear and not the front? You sure there was no frontal impact?
I was making a left from a stop so it couldn't be more than 15mph. Hit a patch of ice and car started heading straight for the curb so I over corrected and front wheels hooked up while rear swung into curb with bang 💥
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Thedude wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 6:49 pm
max225 wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 6:27 pm How fast were you going when you hit the curb. I had a pretty significant impact once in my TDI. And later on it took 2/3 times to get it straight.

Also only the rear and not the front? You sure there was no frontal impact?
I was making a left from a stop so it couldn't be more than 15mph. Hit a patch of ice and car started heading straight for the curb so I over corrected and front wheels hooked up while rear swung into curb with bang 💥
The rear suspension on this car is very simple. Should be pretty easy to figure out the issue. Then again you have the fancy AWD model... Hmm Can you take the car to another dealer/shop and ask them to verify the alignment specs?
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Thedude wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 6:14 pm
D Griff wrote:
Second opinion/better shop?
VW agrees
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If the alignment is good, and a second tech verified it with no change... you know the alignment should be good if you have a printout showing it...
The modern Hunter alignment machines most dealers have basically walk you through every step to get it right in spec, to the point they tell you which bolt to turn in which direction.

What gets me is that they say they rotated the tires and the pull became less aggressive.

That right there is the next step. You’ve likely got a shifted belt, misshapen tire or some form of radial tire pull. You change one variable at a time, and if the symptom changes, that’s what you repair next.

My next step as a service advisor would be to swap wheels and tires off another known good car and drive it. If it tracks straight, I’m selling you a new set of tires and you go from there.
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fledonfoot wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 7:34 pm
Thedude wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 6:14 pm
VW agrees
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If the alignment is good, and a second tech verified it with no change... you know the alignment should be good if you have a printout showing it...
The modern Hunter alignment machines most dealers have basically walk you through every step to get it right in spec, to the point they tell you which bolt to turn in which direction.

What gets me is that they say they rotated the tires and the pull became less aggressive.

That right there is the next step. You’ve likely got a shifted belt, misshapen tire or some form of radial tire pull. You change one variable at a time, and if the symptom changes, that’s what you repair next.

My next step as a service advisor would be to swap wheels and tires off another known good car and drive it. If it tracks straight, I’m selling you a new set of tires and you go from there.
I don't know what they are talking about with that "less aggressive" nonesense because it's actually worse now after they tinkered with it.
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Thedude wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 8:07 pm
fledonfoot wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 7:34 pm

If the alignment is good, and a second tech verified it with no change... you know the alignment should be good if you have a printout showing it...
The modern Hunter alignment machines most dealers have basically walk you through every step to get it right in spec, to the point they tell you which bolt to turn in which direction.

What gets me is that they say they rotated the tires and the pull became less aggressive.

That right there is the next step. You’ve likely got a shifted belt, misshapen tire or some form of radial tire pull. You change one variable at a time, and if the symptom changes, that’s what you repair next.

My next step as a service advisor would be to swap wheels and tires off another known good car and drive it. If it tracks straight, I’m selling you a new set of tires and you go from there.
I don't know what they are talking about with that "less aggressive" nonesense because it's actually worse now after they tinkered with it.
Did they give you an alignment printout?
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but it is actually possible that lateral impact to the tire broke or shifted a belt in the tire that took the hit. If you got it back after they rotated the tires, it might feel different because of that. Same way you can get a bubble in the sidewall from a pothole.

I would seriously look to swap out a wheel and tire set from another car and see what happens.
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fledonfoot wrote:but it is actually possible that lateral impact to the tire broke or shifted a belt in the tire that took the hit. If you got it back after they rotated the tires, it might feel different because of that. Same way you can get a bubble in the sidewall from a pothole.

I would seriously look to swap out a wheel and tire set from another car and see what happens.
Good call dude.

I can put my summers back on for a day... actually no I can't with my fractured shoulder... gah...

I'll figure something out.

Anyway, let's get this thread back on track!
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Thedude wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 8:26 pm
fledonfoot wrote:but it is actually possible that lateral impact to the tire broke or shifted a belt in the tire that took the hit. If you got it back after they rotated the tires, it might feel different because of that. Same way you can get a bubble in the sidewall from a pothole.

I would seriously look to swap out a wheel and tire set from another car and see what happens.
Good call dude.

I can put my summers back on for a day... actually no I can't with my fractured shoulder... gah...

I'll figure something out.

Anyway, let's get this thread back on track!
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https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/deta ... /overview/


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:mahtroy:

There you go! You can go a little older for a little less money and save even more. But boy .. that's 30k depreciation on this bad boy. A bit highish miles doe.
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fledonfoot wrote:
Did they give you an alignment printout?
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D Griff wrote:
Clownshoobie wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 12:56 pm Looks-n-sounds like R is in great shape. Keep, don't trade (especially for something else used): it's the devil you know and love. When you add to the stable, let it be something completely different. Despite being the most geezerly DFDist, my first impulse was something less practical than a sensible German or Japanese hatchback. S2000. Older Cayman S. MX-5. If that's not your cup of tea, the :truk: idea ain't bad.
I'm thinking :dat:

Here's why: adding a Subaru or another GTI/R to the stable gives you.... two of the same car, essentially. (I like Golfs more than Subies, but bear with me). You have an AWD sedan/hatch practical thing. If you want a new car simply because you want something new, but you also love and want to keep your R, why not go for something totally new and fun? I'm thinking of a Cayman myself right now, but an NC Miata would be cheap, reliable, comfortable-ish and efficient for the commute. It would also be a whole new type of fun you've never experienced. Then keep the R for skiing/when you need space. A C5/C6 'vette, 996 911 (this could get you AWD), S2000, any of these would be rad.

If this really isn't your cup of tea, I'd make three other suggestions:
-Just keep driving the R until the wheels fall off
-Trade it in for a MK7 R/GTI if you just want something newer/nicer but in the same style with the same things to offer
-Trade the R for a 997 911 AWD and daily the fuck out of it :micdrop:
:dat:

Also, as an R owner and bringing my personal car experiences into the equation and from what i read on DFD, I'd keep my R if it were paid for and well maintained. It is a car people want to own and the resale value reflects that, and will continue to do so even when it is a beat up old bag of problems. Sell when it gets to that point.

For extra fun, get something like a :jeep: or ZR2 :truk: , and if it's too pricey then an Xterra in a cool color like yellow.
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Thedude wrote:
max225 wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 2:39 pm Don't forget repair+Maintenance. My fully depreciated crown vic costs around $400 a year in maintenance and $450 a year in repairs... and has for a long time. Tons of factors of course. But any decent car will be $300-400 in all in expenses. (5 years or newer, sub 100k miles, properly maintained)

The other option is to go super cheap and get a $2000 buick and drive it for 50k miles till the engine runs out of oil and rinse and repeat. as you mentioned.
ok... I'll entertain this idea... not as far as $2k cheap but what would be a sub-$15k beater worth looking for (while keeping the R)?
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Thedude wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 8:41 pm
fledonfoot wrote:
Did they give you an alignment printout?
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Damn, one of the better alignments I've ever seen at a mass market dealer. Not bad at all.

Alignment isn't the problem based off that.

Put the summers on and go drive it.

If it still pulls with another set of wheels and tires, perhaps you've sent a shock into the rear diff and something's fubared in there. Is it on acceleration, braking, maintaining speed or all of the above?
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Keep Mk6 and roll. Bank cash. Re-evalutate in 1-2 yrs. Seems like want over 'need'. Understandable of course. We love cars! :) :like:
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Davestr wrote: Wed Jan 24, 2018 5:54 am Keep Mk6 and roll. Bank cash. Re-evalutate in 1-2 yrs. Seems like want over 'need'. Understandable of course. We love cars! :) :like:
This is what ends up happening every time I kick tires around😂
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Thedude wrote: Wed Jan 24, 2018 10:17 am
Davestr wrote: Wed Jan 24, 2018 5:54 am Keep Mk6 and roll. Bank cash. Re-evalutate in 1-2 yrs. Seems like want over 'need'. Understandable of course. We love cars! :) :like:
This is what ends up happening every time I kick tires around😂
:scrooge:
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Thedude wrote: Wed Jan 24, 2018 10:17 am
Davestr wrote: Wed Jan 24, 2018 5:54 am Keep Mk6 and roll. Bank cash. Re-evalutate in 1-2 yrs. Seems like want over 'need'. Understandable of course. We love cars! :) :like:
This is what ends up happening every time I kick tires around😂
In your situation it makes sense doe... MK6 R is a great vehicle.
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[user not found] wrote: Wed Jan 24, 2018 1:11 pm
wap wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 4:41 pm

:notsure:
:lolol:

:wap: is :disgust:
:dat:





:trollface:
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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Thedude
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D Griff wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 2:46 pm
Clownshoobie wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 12:56 pm Looks-n-sounds like R is in great shape. Keep, don't trade (especially for something else used): it's the devil you know and love. When you add to the stable, let it be something completely different. Despite being the most geezerly DFDist, my first impulse was something less practical than a sensible German or Japanese hatchback. S2000. Older Cayman S. MX-5. If that's not your cup of tea, the :truk: idea ain't bad.
I'm thinking :dat:

Here's why: adding a Subaru or another GTI/R to the stable gives you.... two of the same car, essentially. (I like Golfs more than Subies, but bear with me). You have an AWD sedan/hatch practical thing. If you want a new car simply because you want something new, but you also love and want to keep your R, why not go for something totally new and fun? I'm thinking of a Cayman myself right now, but an NC Miata would be cheap, reliable, comfortable-ish and efficient for the commute. It would also be a whole new type of fun you've never experienced. Then keep the R for skiing/when you need space. A C5/C6 'vette, 996 911 (this could get you AWD), S2000, any of these would be rad.

If this really isn't your cup of tea, I'd make three other suggestions:
-Just keep driving the R until the wheels fall off
-Trade it in for a MK7 R/GTI if you just want something newer/nicer but in the same style with the same things to offer
-Trade the R for a 997 911 AWD and daily the fuck out of it :micdrop:
If I went Subaru I'd go outback/forester with an automatic because my recent injury has me thinking about the possibility of not being able to drive a manual if I do something to any of my limbs. It's not all that fun having to shift like a ninja to get my hand back on the wheel.

If I went with a second car it'd likely be an auto. If I went GTI for second car I'm not sure if I'd do DSG or not.
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Thedude
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Tarspin wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2018 8:50 pm
Thedude wrote:
ok... I'll entertain this idea... not as far as $2k cheap but what would be a sub-$15k beater worth looking for (while keeping the R)?
Dis?Image
Maybe... haven't looked into these at all but I probably should!
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