Mah camber/toe gauge build

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Acid666
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Need to make a pair of brackets, so I decided to jump on it. Went to Lowes, got a 6' bar of 1"X1" stainless steel square tubing, 2 foot of 3/8-16 threaded rod, some nuts and a few other odds and ends. Also got in my digital angle gauge the other day. It's got magnets on 3 sides to mount it to the stainless steel bar
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First goal is to math it out. I want this to work on my 18" front wheels and 19" rear wheels, and my stock 18" Z06 wheels. It also needs to work on the front and rear of the car and the heights to body panels differs. So the math tells me I need to make it drop down 5" below the centerline of the wheel to be able to get a tape measure past all of the body panels.
I may need to thread multiple points as the 19" width setup might not land on the rim in the same spot as the 18" wheels. I'll figure this out in a bit.

First bit of mathing, getting distances and other shit. I need 85" of bar and 6' of it is only 72". So I need to go buy more.
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Since I don't have access to a welder, I'm going to plate it up on both sides and smash that shit down so that it stays true. This is the rough design. I'm going to cut slots in the side for a tape measure for toe. I just need to research to find out if there's a certain width I need to make the toe slots from each other. 1/16" of toe at one distance is different than 1/16" at another.
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First hole drill and tapped. This stuff is pretty easy to drill thru. Tap was easy as well. It's thin walled but still straight as fuck.
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No welder, so I'm going to cross cut these so they sit flush in a + formation.
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Sanded down a little with minimal play. My support plates are going to bolt it down so there's no angle wobble.
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More to come as I make more progress.
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wap
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Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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troyguitar
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Dat airboat gonna float like a butterfly and sting like a bee. I just put a square against the tire and measured the difference from vertical at 2 heights on the wheel to get the camber angle... :math:
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Acid666
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troyguitar wrote: Fri Sep 01, 2017 11:43 am Dat airboat gonna float like a butterfly and sting like a bee. I just put a square against the tire and measured the difference from vertical at 2 heights on the wheel to get the camber angle... :math:
I could just use a bar and drill 2 holes in it. But I wanna just mount this bitch and strap it to the rim, do the same for the opposite side, and make it my toe plates too.
I'm overdoing it with the idea that I might do this for a couple of local friends and I wanna do a one stop shop and not have to deal with separate toe plates and all that jazz.
But I totally thought about just a straight bar with 2 points and putting my angle gauge on that. Simple, but I've got to complicate things. It's how I do boo.
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Acid666
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Got some more work done today. Gonna have to call a couple of audibles for a couple of reasons. One is because I didn't make the vertical beams tall enough, so I don't have too much room to play with the point location. Extra height would of been good for my adjustment when going from my 18" wheels to the 19". So I'm going to cut a little angle plate piece and then have separate bottom points/screws for going between 18 and 19". The good news is that it shouldn't clash and I should be able to keep them all extended the same amount (when I go from front to rear I wont have to retract a screw to clear the rim)

Lots of pics, I'll try to condense it down to the major steps.

Tubing and grooves cut
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Support plate brace lining up for cut
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Pretap drill
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Lining up at 90°
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Started the taps, and then tapped them thru the tubing so the thread is consistent
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Cutting Ø3/8-16 rod down to sizes. Ground edges and put wingnuts on them (loctited)
(If I could do this again I wouldn't even deal with this. I'd just use a bolt. I just didn't know how long I wanted the threads to stick out so I got a rod and decided to cut to size. But I had to use a tap/die set to clean out the threads that I kind of smashed while clamping down... Hence why I'd just use a bolt next time)
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This bitch is SOLID. It doesn't rotate or rock at all. The plate was a simple way to lock it down since I don't have a welder
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Acid666
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Got it all together. The audible that I was going to call to make this work easily with my 18 AND 19" rims wasn't going to work, so I just threaded it for both sets and will deal with it later. I just wanted to get it working so I can test it now and start adjusting my camber and get it rolling.
Maxed out the front left tire, it's only at 1.8°, I was hoping to get between 2.0°-2.5° but I might mess it it more this weekend to see.
Overall, pleased. Need to cut the slots in the sides for tape measures for toe settings. I'll do that later. Will also do the finishing touches like caps on the threaded rods and a few other things too. Will likely paint it and put rubber on the square tube ends so I don't have to worry about the metal scraping my car from mishandling it.

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Acid666
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After man-handling the bottom camber bolts, I'm wondering how much I'm going to have to fuck with my toe setup to get it back straight. I need to look at it first to even see if it's shifted. I'm thinking when I do the rear I might get the same misalignment going on so I'll have a good bit of fuckery to deal with to get it all squared off. I plan on running zero toe all around to keep it normal for a bit, then making tweaks later.
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ChrisoftheNorth
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You might have some tow in to address, but it shouldn't be bad.

I just used the :mahtroy: method to set tow by using a laser measure between two pieces of wood. Worked 5/7.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Acid666
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Detroit wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2017 3:50 pm You might have some tow in to address, but it shouldn't be bad.

I just used the :mahtroy: method to set tow by using a laser measure between two pieces of wood. Worked 5/7.
Well these things are straight as hell so I might tack on a little flip out ruler or something and then use that to align it. A laser would work really well with these since I've got a whole bar that runs with the rim. I've actually got a house level laser somewhere that'll throw out a solid line. I should make a stand for it or something and see if I can incorporate these with it.
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ChrisoftheNorth
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Acid666 wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2017 3:53 pm
Detroit wrote: Fri Sep 08, 2017 3:50 pm You might have some tow in to address, but it shouldn't be bad.

I just used the :mahtroy: method to set tow by using a laser measure between two pieces of wood. Worked 5/7.
Well these things are straight as hell so I might tack on a little flip out ruler or something and then use that to align it. A laser would work really well with these since I've got a whole bar that runs with the rim. I've actually got a house level laser somewhere that'll throw out a solid line. I should make a stand for it or something and see if I can incorporate these with it.
You'd want something bigger than a ruler I think. Kind of a small target to hit on the other side, unless you make a mount for the laser measure.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Acid666
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Pretty much done. I put the 2nd one together today and finished all the taps. One is bolted up with the bottom 2 points for the 18" wheels, the other is wider for the 19" wheels in the back. I went to adjust the camber on the rear wheels tonight and it turns out they've already got about 1.50° camber on both wheels. YAY! I don't have to fuck with that shit!
So it's running about 2.30° in the front and 1.50° in the rear, and is all aligned. Tomorrow we get to test it with the Konis and Strano front bar for round 2 of rebound adjustment. :melon: is racing too. Should be an interesting day.

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