Thanks a lot dude! The shifter box to the torque tube bushings are my end game so I won't do anything with the rivets further up. I'm kind of wondering if something is loose too. Wifey gave me for spending my day on car maintenance items instead of home shit that I promised to complete so this goes on the back burner for the next couple of nights. Hopefully I find something to fix or replace while in there.Acid666 wrote:You'll be able to unscrew the shifter from the bottom box, but I think to get to the internals you'll have to grind off what looks like rivets on the stock setup.
I tore apart my aftermarket shifter to find a rattle and I know what it is but I can't do much to alleviate it.
For the stock setup, you might end up ruining the rubber around the top just getting to the internals. I don't know this for sure, just remembering what I remember from pictures.
Those 4X bolts are removable, but the brown inside ones (4X) look to either be rivets or PEM studs or something. I don't really know how to remove them and not destroy the whole thing. One thing you can look at is those big Torx screws that hold the shifter box to the torque tube. From what I understand those bushings wear out and need to be replaced. My aftermarket shifter has solid mounts and I think this is where a lot of the solid feel comes from. They sell replacement bushings online for those.
C6 Vert Manuel. Car for Motorcycle Lovers Who Also Value Skin
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https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5 ... boxes.html
I had this dude rebuild my lower shifter box and the end result is fantastic. Night and day difference in shift feel.
I'd pull the shifter off (the 4 bolts) and check for looseness in it. I doubt there is any, it's probably all in the box. Most people don't realize how much slop there is in the box.
I had this dude rebuild my lower shifter box and the end result is fantastic. Night and day difference in shift feel.
I'd pull the shifter off (the 4 bolts) and check for looseness in it. I doubt there is any, it's probably all in the box. Most people don't realize how much slop there is in the box.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Oh this is interesting ! I think i will send Tom my core for a rebuild. There are two options poly or delrin, are you happy with the delrin version you specified?Detroit wrote:https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5 ... boxes.html
I had this dude rebuild my lower shifter box and the end result is fantastic. Night and day difference in shift feel.
I'd pull the shifter off (the 4 bolts) and check for looseness in it. I doubt there is any, it's probably all in the box. Most people don't realize how much slop there is in the box.
I might even be able to get a hold of the type of bearings he needs (mentioned that he is short in his latest posting. I have a contract with a robotics co that also manufactures high end bearings and cutting tools. Send a few bearings with my core for a discount.
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The dude is super responsive and has a quick turn-around, though I do think he's a bit overwhelmed by demand. Nobody offers a rebuilt box like this, and especially for the price.Tarspin wrote: ↑Wed May 09, 2018 7:08 amOh this is interesting ! I think i will send Tom my core for a rebuild. There are two options poly or delrin, are you happy with the delrin version you specified?Detroit wrote:https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5 ... boxes.html
I had this dude rebuild my lower shifter box and the end result is fantastic. Night and day difference in shift feel.
I'd pull the shifter off (the 4 bolts) and check for looseness in it. I doubt there is any, it's probably all in the box. Most people don't realize how much slop there is in the box.
I might even be able to get a hold of the type of bearings he needs (mentioned that he is short in his latest posting. I have a contract with a robotics co that also manufactures high end bearings and cutting tools. Send a few bearings with my core for a discount.
I'm pleased with the delrin. You can feel more through the shifter (vibes), but it just feels more mechanical to me. I drove old cars with shifters bolted straight to the trans for years, this is no different. My shifter box wasn't even that bad when I pulled it out, and debated not sending it to him. But I'm so glad I did. It eliminated the rubberyness in the shift feeling, and overall feels way more direct and easy to find gears. Mine used to hang up going into first sometimes, it doesn't do that at all anymore. I'm still using my 100% stock upper shifter too, that thing was tight and I saw no reason to replace. I guess shorter throws might be nice? But overall the box improvement was the best yet.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Oh man, i want this rebuid! Shifting into first gear is a gong show. I'll probably opt for the delrin spec as well. I don't mind the vibrations (that's what she said).Detroit wrote:The dude is super responsive and has a quick turn-around, though I do think he's a bit overwhelmed by demand. Nobody offers a rebuilt box like this, and especially for the price.Tarspin wrote: ↑Wed May 09, 2018 7:08 am Oh this is interesting ! I think i will send Tom my core for a rebuild. There are two options poly or delrin, are you happy with the delrin version you specified?
I might even be able to get a hold of the type of bearings he needs (mentioned that he is short in his latest posting. I have a contract with a robotics co that also manufactures high end bearings and cutting tools. Send a few bearings with my core for a discount.
I'm pleased with the delrin. You can feel more through the shifter (vibes), but it just feels more mechanical to me. I drove old cars with shifters bolted straight to the trans for years, this is no different. My shifter box wasn't even that bad when I pulled it out, and debated not sending it to him. But I'm so glad I did. It eliminated the rubberyness in the shift feeling, and overall feels way more direct and easy to find gears. Mine used to hang up going into first sometimes, it doesn't do that at all anymore. I'm still using my 100% stock upper shifter too, that thing was tight and I saw no reason to replace. I guess shorter throws might be nice? But overall the box improvement was the best yet.
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It's a 5/7 update. But, it's also really important to pay close attention to the alignment when you put it back together. I spent quite a bit of time tweaking it to make sure it's just right.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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So find first gear and tighten top left, then find sixth gear and tighten up top right kind of idea?Detroit wrote:It's a 5/7 update. But, it's also really important to pay close attention to the alignment when you put it back together. I spent quite a bit of time tweaking it to make sure it's just right.
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Kind of. When you take the box out, you'll see there's an indent in the rod that's bolted to the shift linkage. You need that lined up perfectly for side-to-side, and might take some trial and error. Then the torque tube mount bolts need to be adjusted for fore-aft. It's a good idea to take close pictures before you disassemble to get you in the ballpark during installation.Tarspin wrote: ↑Wed May 09, 2018 9:15 amSo find first gear and tighten top left, then find sixth gear and tighten up top right kind of idea?Detroit wrote:It's a 5/7 update. But, it's also really important to pay close attention to the alignment when you put it back together. I spent quite a bit of time tweaking it to make sure it's just right.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Got it, i will paint mark all things before tearing it apart! Thanks DP!Detroit wrote:Kind of. When you take the box out, you'll see there's an indent in the rod that's bolted to the shift linkage. You need that lined up perfectly for side-to-side, and might take some trial and error. Then the torque tube mount bolts need to be adjusted for fore-aft. It's a good idea to take close pictures before you disassemble to get you in the ballpark during installation.
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He sand blasts the box when he gets it to make it fresh. Back up paint with photo evidence.Tarspin wrote: ↑Wed May 09, 2018 10:03 amGot it, i will paint mark all things before tearing it apart! Thanks DP!Detroit wrote: Kind of. When you take the box out, you'll see there's an indent in the rod that's bolted to the shift linkage. You need that lined up perfectly for side-to-side, and might take some trial and error. Then the torque tube mount bolts need to be adjusted for fore-aft. It's a good idea to take close pictures before you disassemble to get you in the ballpark during installation.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Shudder is gone!
Things that I touched were fluids (engine/diff/clutch), took off the wheels and inspected the brakes (no findings), bottomed out the rear lowering bolts.
I think my left rear wheel centerbore hole might be too tight tolerance and its possible that the wheel was off position and it caused a resonance through the drive train and into the dash at certain rpms. The lugs on that wheel felt a little looser then the others, still tight but not as tight, and getting the wheel off was a serious chore.
Still not totally believing that its gone for good. Hopefully doe.
Things that I touched were fluids (engine/diff/clutch), took off the wheels and inspected the brakes (no findings), bottomed out the rear lowering bolts.
I think my left rear wheel centerbore hole might be too tight tolerance and its possible that the wheel was off position and it caused a resonance through the drive train and into the dash at certain rpms. The lugs on that wheel felt a little looser then the others, still tight but not as tight, and getting the wheel off was a serious chore.
Still not totally believing that its gone for good. Hopefully doe.
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Tarspin wrote: ↑Wed May 09, 2018 2:54 pm Shudder is gone!
Things that I touched were fluids (engine/diff/clutch), took off the wheels and inspected the brakes (no findings), bottomed out the rear lowering bolts.
I think my left rear wheel centerbore hole might be too tight tolerance and its possible that the wheel was off position and it caused a resonance through the drive train and into the dash at certain rpms. The lugs on that wheel felt a little looser then the others, still tight but not as tight, and getting the wheel off was a serious chore.
Still not totally believing that its gone for good. Hopefully doe.
Hope that's all it was, breh!
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote:Tarspin wrote: ↑Wed May 09, 2018 2:54 pm Shudder is gone!
Things that I touched were fluids (engine/diff/clutch), took off the wheels and inspected the brakes (no findings), bottomed out the rear lowering bolts.
I think my left rear wheel centerbore hole might be too tight tolerance and its possible that the wheel was off position and it caused a resonance through the drive train and into the dash at certain rpms. The lugs on that wheel felt a little looser then the others, still tight but not as tight, and getting the wheel off was a serious chore.
Still not totally believing that its gone for good. Hopefully doe.
Hope that's all it was, breh!
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Posting the vert up for sale.
One serious buyer contacted me an hour after i put it up but he tried getting it for 4k below the lowest posted on the market. Even at that price ($15.2k USD) I would have lost 1k/yr for the three years I owned it. Hopefully something closer to asking comes up this week.
I better give it a proper wash and wax at least.
One serious buyer contacted me an hour after i put it up but he tried getting it for 4k below the lowest posted on the market. Even at that price ($15.2k USD) I would have lost 1k/yr for the three years I owned it. Hopefully something closer to asking comes up this week.
I better give it a proper wash and wax at least.
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Tarspin wrote: ↑Sun Jul 08, 2018 7:03 am Posting the vert up for sale.
One serious buyer contacted me an hour after i put it up but he tried getting it for 4k below the lowest posted on the market. Even at that price ($15.2k USD) I would have lost 1k/yr for the three years I owned it. Hopefully something closer to asking comes up this week.
I better give it a proper wash and wax at least.
Is this funding second purchase?
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Apex wrote: ↑Sun Jul 08, 2018 7:28 amTarspin wrote: ↑Sun Jul 08, 2018 7:03 am Posting the vert up for sale.
One serious buyer contacted me an hour after i put it up but he tried getting it for 4k below the lowest posted on the market. Even at that price ($15.2k USD) I would have lost 1k/yr for the three years I owned it. Hopefully something closer to asking comes up this week.
I better give it a proper wash and wax at least.
Is this funding second purchase?
.... stretched really thin for the next year. Maybe by the time I'm ready to buy another one i will be able to pick up a GS
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Bought it for 18.5kUSD
Wheels and tars were 3.5k
Diff replacement was 2k
Tax/misc was 2.5k
so all in cost was 26.5k
Sold it for 19kUSD
So all in costs minus fuel and insurance were 2.5k/yr including "mods".
There was another guy on the line that was willing to pay full asking price, so another 1k roughly.
It will help me reach the 20% down on the cottage so that saves me $10k in CMHC mortgage insurance. It's a win.
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Most of us aren’t lucky enough to get more than original paid price unless we buy wranglers work sirTarspin wrote: ↑Sun Jul 08, 2018 2:36 pmBought it for 18.5kUSD
Wheels and tars were 3.5k
Diff replacement was 2k
Tax/misc was 2.5k
so all in cost was 26.5k
Sold it for 19kUSD
So all in costs minus fuel and insurance were 2.5k/yr including "mods".
There was another guy on the line that was willing to pay full asking price, so another 1k roughly.
It will help me reach the 20% down on the cottage so that saves me $10k in CMHC mortgage insurance. It's a win.
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Thanks dude, a sign of the times and i think that I got in and getting out at the perfect time.max225 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 08, 2018 2:41 pmMost of us aren’t lucky enough to get more than original paid price unless we buy wranglers work sirTarspin wrote: ↑Sun Jul 08, 2018 2:36 pm
Bought it for 18.5kUSD
Wheels and tars were 3.5k
Diff replacement was 2k
Tax/misc was 2.5k
so all in cost was 26.5k
Sold it for 19kUSD
So all in costs minus fuel and insurance were 2.5k/yr including "mods".
There was another guy on the line that was willing to pay full asking price, so another 1k roughly.
It will help me reach the 20% down on the cottage so that saves me $10k in CMHC mortgage insurance. It's a win.