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Devilchrono wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 10:03 am So, now that little man is 1, and the wife and I have decided we need to start getting more active along with him, we're looking at getting outside more this coming Spring. Easiest option I can see, besides walking the neighborhood and small park down the street, would be getting bikes and a trailer type thing for one of them. We can't break the bank on anything, but I was wondering if I could get pointed in the right direction of some bikes that would be inexpensive, reliable, and could handle both road and unpaved (but heavily packed) dirt/gravel trail. Obviously, everything would be super low speed and no going balls to the wall.
Trailers typically connect with a lug off the side of the rear wheel quick release. Just about any frame with a quick release rear axle and flat dropouts should work.

Fatter tires are more comfortable, especially on gravel. Knobby tires will have rolling resistance and vibration on pavement.

Disc brakes won't matter much at lower price points. Bad discs aren't any better than decent rim brakes.

Stay away from low end suspension forks and rear suspension in general. Not necessary for path bikes, and will only add weight, complexity, and they'll likely stop working if they even worked at all in the first place. Carbon forks will be the smoothest. Steel is pretty good but heavier. Aluminum although lighter than steel will likely be the roughest riding fork.

Frame wise, either aluminum or steel, avoid low end carbon fiber.

Drivetrain wise, avoid Shimano Tourney, Altus, Acera. I'd suggest Claris or Sora as the lowest, with Tiagra, 105, or Deore (MTB) being really nice bits of kit.

Here's a nice Cannondale Quick. 32mm tires are really nice and cushy, 1x10 gearing is easier to figure out as you only have one shifter to deal with, Deore MTB parts means it's unlikely to break or need much servicing. Aluminum fork isn't great but the fat tires will probably mask any harshness from the fork.
https://www.cannondale.com/en/USA/Bike/ ... =undefined

Surly Cross Check is a great bike that comes with beefy tires, simple brakes, great parts, and a frame/fork that's known for smooth ride and being absolutely bomb proof. Should be around $1000 MSRP with shops frequently having these on sale. I love these bikes, you can build it into anything you can imagine. The super fat tires are a big plus on this IMO, 41's are serious meats and bigger than what I have on my cross bike.
https://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check/bike_specs

This Specialized Sirrus is pretty nice looking. 2x9 drivetrain with Sora parts is alright, nice big 32mm tires, carbon fiber fork and aluminum frame, and comes in a few colors.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/mens- ... 677-128883

And lastly I think Fuji makes great entry price bikes. Their aluminum frames are really nice, and they typically include better parts for less because they don't have the badge that Cannondale and Specialized do. Here's a nice Sportif 2.1 with aluminum frame, carbon fork, and new Sora parts. Geometry on this puts you more upright than a racy road bike, but it's more road oriented than the others I posted.
http://www.fujibikes.com/usa/bikes/road ... portif-2-1

Keep in mind you can always go cheaper than this, just that parts quality starts to really dive off a cliff. If you're not riding it a whole lot that might be fine. If you want to ride it a lot, I'd personally spend a bit more to get more durable components. I would suggest getting a bike from a local bike shop. They'll make sure it was assembled correctly and help you set it up so you aren't hurting yourself from a bad position on it. Most will also give you a free 30 day tune up, necessary because new cables and housing stretch and then the shifting gets all fucked up and needs to be adjusted.

Kind of goes without saying, but you'll need accessories if you don't already have them. A pump is a must. And I strongly recommend helmet, rear blinky light, water bottles and cages. You might want a flag on the trailer as they sit low and can be harder to see.
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coogles wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 11:35 am Well, here's to hoping someone will take it off my hands. I've had a couple nibbles on a local Facebook bicycling swap group, but nothing real firm yet. Everyone at the LBS goes gaga over the clear anodized frame and the post has generated a lot of interest, but no one wants to actually buy the damn thing.
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Johnny_P wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 11:54 am
Devilchrono wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 10:03 am So, now that little man is 1, and the wife and I have decided we need to start getting more active along with him, we're looking at getting outside more this coming Spring. Easiest option I can see, besides walking the neighborhood and small park down the street, would be getting bikes and a trailer type thing for one of them. We can't break the bank on anything, but I was wondering if I could get pointed in the right direction of some bikes that would be inexpensive, reliable, and could handle both road and unpaved (but heavily packed) dirt/gravel trail. Obviously, everything would be super low speed and no going balls to the wall.
Trailers typically connect with a lug off the side of the rear wheel quick release. Just about any frame with a quick release rear axle and flat dropouts should work.

Fatter tires are more comfortable, especially on gravel. Knobby tires will have rolling resistance and vibration on pavement.

Disc brakes won't matter much at lower price points. Bad discs aren't any better than decent rim brakes.

Stay away from low end suspension forks and rear suspension in general. Not necessary for path bikes, and will only add weight, complexity, and they'll likely stop working if they even worked at all in the first place. Carbon forks will be the smoothest. Steel is pretty good but heavier. Aluminum although lighter than steel will likely be the roughest riding fork.

Frame wise, either aluminum or steel, avoid low end carbon fiber.

Drivetrain wise, avoid Shimano Tourney, Altus, Acera. I'd suggest Claris or Sora as the lowest, with Tiagra, 105, or Deore (MTB) being really nice bits of kit.

Here's a nice Cannondale Quick. 32mm tires are really nice and cushy, 1x10 gearing is easier to figure out as you only have one shifter to deal with, Deore MTB parts means it's unlikely to break or need much servicing. Aluminum fork isn't great but the fat tires will probably mask any harshness from the fork.
https://www.cannondale.com/en/USA/Bike/ ... =undefined

Surly Cross Check is a great bike that comes with beefy tires, simple brakes, great parts, and a frame/fork that's known for smooth ride and being absolutely bomb proof. Should be around $1000 MSRP with shops frequently having these on sale. I love these bikes, you can build it into anything you can imagine. The super fat tires are a big plus on this IMO, 41's are serious meats and bigger than what I have on my cross bike.
https://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check/bike_specs

This Specialized Sirrus is pretty nice looking. 2x9 drivetrain with Sora parts is alright, nice big 32mm tires, carbon fiber fork and aluminum frame, and comes in a few colors.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/mens- ... 677-128883

And lastly I think Fuji makes great entry price bikes. Their aluminum frames are really nice, and they typically include better parts for less because they don't have the badge that Cannondale and Specialized do. Here's a nice Sportif 2.1 with aluminum frame, carbon fork, and new Sora parts. Geometry on this puts you more upright than a racy road bike, but it's more road oriented than the others I posted.
http://www.fujibikes.com/usa/bikes/road ... portif-2-1

Keep in mind you can always go cheaper than this, just that parts quality starts to really dive off a cliff. If you're not riding it a whole lot that might be fine. If you want to ride it a lot, I'd personally spend a bit more to get more durable components. I would suggest getting a bike from a local bike shop. They'll make sure it was assembled correctly and help you set it up so you aren't hurting yourself from a bad position on it. Most will also give you a free 30 day tune up, necessary because new cables and housing stretch and then the shifting gets all fucked up and needs to be adjusted.

Kind of goes without saying, but you'll need accessories if you don't already have them. A pump is a must. And I strongly recommend helmet, rear blinky light, water bottles and cages. You might want a flag on the trailer as they sit low and can be harder to see.
Thank you for the information. I'll make sure to discuss all this with her and see what she has to say. Luckily, we have time and can make a plan over winter of what we want to do. While it won't be ridden much, at least to start, something that'll hold up that we can grow with as little man gets bigger would be a big plus.
[user not found] wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 12:14 pm
Devilchrono wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 10:03 am So, now that little man is 1, and the wife and I have decided we need to start getting more active along with him, we're looking at getting outside more this coming Spring. Easiest option I can see, besides walking the neighborhood and small park down the street, would be getting bikes and a trailer type thing for one of them. We can't break the bank on anything, but I was wondering if I could get pointed in the right direction of some bikes that would be inexpensive, reliable, and could handle both road and unpaved (but heavily packed) dirt/gravel trail. Obviously, everything would be super low speed and no going balls to the wall.
Just don't buy anything from Walmart. Cheap chinese garbage.

You want a hybrid or gravel bike. Trek or Specialized or any of the big box brands make bikes like this.

Something like this for her: https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bike ... rCode=grey

Something like this for you: https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bike ... visibility

Discs are easier than rim brakes, work better, stop better, and work in all conditions. You don't need suspension.

Search Craigslist for Trek FX bikes, I'm sure there's a few out there.
Thanks [user not found]! I'll take all that into account and consideration, along with JP's and we'll go from there. Also, we have a cycle shop just down the road from our house, so it might be worth going to and getting to know the staff and have this same discussion with them too.
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Johnny_P wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 11:55 am pics
I know, wrong side, but it's the only one I took of the whole bike. :ban:

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coogles wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 1:10 pm
Johnny_P wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 11:55 am pics
I know, wrong side, but it's the only one I took of the whole bike. :ban:

Image
:notbad: I've seen a few Specialized Crux running around here in raw aluminum and it looks pretty darn good.

You know you could always flip the stem over to bring the bars up a bit more. That should help with shoulder pain. Dat saddle doe is slammed all the way back. Yeah bike is on the edge of being too small for you.
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Johnny_P wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 1:18 pm :notbad: I've seen a few Specialized Crux running around here in raw aluminum and it looks pretty darn good.

You know you could always flip the stem over to bring the bars up a bit more. That should help with shoulder pain. Dat saddle doe is slammed all the way back. Yeah bike is on the edge of being too small for you.
Yeah man, it's sort of a miserable place to spend any real length of time. And that was after a professional fitting. I always thought I'd get used to it, never did, and then totally stopped riding the thing.
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coogles wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 3:26 pm
Johnny_P wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 1:18 pm :notbad: I've seen a few Specialized Crux running around here in raw aluminum and it looks pretty darn good.

You know you could always flip the stem over to bring the bars up a bit more. That should help with shoulder pain. Dat saddle doe is slammed all the way back. Yeah bike is on the edge of being too small for you.
Yeah man, it's sort of a miserable place to spend any real length of time. And that was after a professional fitting. I always thought I'd get used to it, never did, and then totally stopped riding the thing.
Because of the position or because of the ride? CAADs aren't known to ride exactly smoothly. They're crit racing bikes.

Kinda same problem with my Cervelo. The fact that it can't take larger tires is :rage:

Once I get the new rotors I'll assemble the tubeless wheelset and throw the dirt tires on that, and I bought some 32mm continental road slicks for the stock All City wheelset. Might dump the roadie at that point, TBD.
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Johnny_P wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 3:46 pm Because of the position or because of the ride? CAADs aren't known to ride exactly smoothly. They're crit racing bikes.

Kinda same problem with my Cervelo. The fact that it can't take larger tires is :rage:

Once I get the new rotors I'll assemble the tubeless wheelset and throw the dirt tires on that, and I bought some 32mm continental road slicks for the stock All City wheelset. Might dump the roadie at that point, TBD.
I think it's the position. Could be a bit of both, but I think if I was more upright I'd be able to stay on this thing for longer stretches. Right now, 30-35 miles is all I have in me on this thing before I'm totally miserable.
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coogles wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 4:23 pm
Johnny_P wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 3:46 pm Because of the position or because of the ride? CAADs aren't known to ride exactly smoothly. They're crit racing bikes.

Kinda same problem with my Cervelo. The fact that it can't take larger tires is :rage:

Once I get the new rotors I'll assemble the tubeless wheelset and throw the dirt tires on that, and I bought some 32mm continental road slicks for the stock All City wheelset. Might dump the roadie at that point, TBD.
I think it's the position. Could be a bit of both, but I think if I was more upright I'd be able to stay on this thing for longer stretches. Right now, 30-35 miles is all I have in me on this thing before I'm totally miserable.
:pussy:

I get it doe. Back and shoulder pain blows when you’re on the bike.
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[user not found] wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 11:17 pm
coogles wrote: Fri Sep 28, 2018 4:23 pm

I think it's the position. Could be a bit of both, but I think if I was more upright I'd be able to stay on this thing for longer stretches. Right now, 30-35 miles is all I have in me on this thing before I'm totally miserable.
The CAAD is a race geo bike - and your body is not used to the position needed to ride it. It takes some conditioning to ride with the stem that low.

A taller stem will definitely help.
Yeah a taller stem is dirt cheap I’d try that.
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So how much should I expect to pay for a bike fit?
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fledonfoot wrote: Sun Sep 30, 2018 1:12 pm So how much should I expect to pay for a bike fit?
100-200
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Anyone want to do either of these with me next year?

Hell of Hunterdon: http://www.hellofhunterdon.com/course/
-Central NJ Sourland region
-Mid March (reg opens Jan 15 and will sell out fast)
-80 miles, 5100'
-15% of that are on gravel roads
-Suitable for regular road bikes

Lu Lacka Wyco Hundo: https://www.mapmyride.com/us/exeter-pa/ ... e-66192850
-NorthEastern PA region, starts in Pittstown
-Late April (reg opens New Years at midnight and will sell out in about 2 hours)
-103 mile, 9100' / 75 mile / 50 mile options
-Majority of that is on gravel / dirt / some single track
-Supposedly OK for regular road bikes, 25c tires at minimum recommended, many do it on gravel / cross bikes as they keep adding more singletrack and gravel each year.
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Fled should do HoH
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Johnny_P wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 9:20 am Fled should do HoH
I've never had their tequila before. How is it?

I'm a long way from century type rides. My stretch goal is to knock on the door of a communist century by the middle of spring.
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fledonfoot wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 10:18 am
Johnny_P wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 9:20 am Fled should do HoH
I've never had their tequila before. How is it?

I'm a long way from century type rides. My stretch goal is to knock on the door of a communist century by the middle of spring.
Wanna do the ACS or MS city to shore ride next year? Those are long but easy, flat af. My company does the ACS ride. They have a 60-something mile option and a hundo. Next year I was thinking I might do the 60, then turn around and ride back home for roughly 120-130 miles.

We should do a DFD city to shore.
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Johnny_P wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 10:46 am
fledonfoot wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 10:18 am

I've never had their tequila before. How is it?

I'm a long way from century type rides. My stretch goal is to knock on the door of a communist century by the middle of spring.
Wanna do the ACS or MS city to shore ride next year? Those are long but easy, flat af. My company does the ACS ride. They have a 60-something mile option and a hundo. Next year I was thinking I might do the 60, then turn around and ride back home for roughly 120-130 miles.

We should do a DFD city to shore.
That's what I was getting at last night with you guys. Get a DFD group together, DFD jerseys. Make it work.
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fledonfoot wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 11:25 am
Johnny_P wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 10:46 am

Wanna do the ACS or MS city to shore ride next year? Those are long but easy, flat af. My company does the ACS ride. They have a 60-something mile option and a hundo. Next year I was thinking I might do the 60, then turn around and ride back home for roughly 120-130 miles.

We should do a DFD city to shore.
That's what I was getting at last night with you guys. Get a DFD group together, DFD jerseys. Make it work.
I'm gonna need a choadie aren't I?
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Apex wrote:
fledonfoot wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 11:25 am That's what I was getting at last night with you guys. Get a DFD group together, DFD jerseys. Make it work.
I'm gonna need a choadie aren't I?
:dat:

This week looks all good weather wise. We have to mtb this weekend.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

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Apex wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 12:06 pm
fledonfoot wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 11:25 am

That's what I was getting at last night with you guys. Get a DFD group together, DFD jerseys. Make it work.
I'm gonna need a choadie aren't I?
Eh. If you're only doing the 60 you can take pretty much any bike. Just change the tires to slicks. Some people even ride their fixies / single speeds. On the ACS ride you'll see literally every type of bike imaginable. The roads are so flat.
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fledonfoot wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 11:25 am
Johnny_P wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 10:46 am

Wanna do the ACS or MS city to shore ride next year? Those are long but easy, flat af. My company does the ACS ride. They have a 60-something mile option and a hundo. Next year I was thinking I might do the 60, then turn around and ride back home for roughly 120-130 miles.

We should do a DFD city to shore.
That's what I was getting at last night with you guys. Get a DFD group together, DFD jerseys. Make it work.
Image
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Gberg2119 wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 12:20 pm
Apex wrote:
I'm gonna need a choadie aren't I?
:dat:

This week looks all good weather wise. We have to mtb this weekend.

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Have you ridden much this year gberg?
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Johnny_P wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 12:44 pm
fledonfoot wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 11:25 am

That's what I was getting at last night with you guys. Get a DFD group together, DFD jerseys. Make it work.
Image
:lolol:

:nice:
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Gberg2119 wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 12:20 pm
Apex wrote:
I'm gonna need a choadie aren't I?
:dat:

This week looks all good weather wise. We have to mtb this weekend.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
:dat:

I attempted to ride Mercer late on Saturday. Got caught out by it being flooded about as far from the parking lot as I could have been. We're talking at least axle deep. Then ended up finishing the ride in the dark. It gets pretty damn dark in the trees after the sun goes down.
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Johnny_P wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 12:46 pm
Gberg2119 wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 12:20 pm :dat:

This week looks all good weather wise. We have to mtb this weekend.

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Have you ridden much this year gberg?
Not nearly as much as I've wanted to. With the weather being so shitty I've been stuck to doing the canal path and I couldn't even do that the last 2 weeks with that rapist on the loose. At least he's captured now.

Wiss might be an option for me now though. I've been doing the drive out to conshohocken a bunch lately and its not too bad.
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